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| Carne en su Jugo Karnilos 333 |
Ed. note: We've said it before but one of the best media covering global cuisine is https:/culinarybackstreets.com and recently out did itself with a photo essay "The Essentials" Where we eat in Guadalajara. If we gave out awards this effort would receive our Chef's Kiss for sure.
GUEST BLOG / By Wendy Perez with equally excellent photography by Maria-Laura Castro Morales--Guadalajara, the capital of the state of Jalisco, is beloved as the birthplace of such Mexican icons as tequila and mariachi music.
The city is a treat for the senses, a place that stokes the desire to see, smell, and taste everything it has to offer. As for the latter, it could take a lifetime – or a great many visits – to work your way through the delicious and varied cuisine specialties found here.
Founded in Western Mexico in 1542 as a hub for regional trade, Guadalajara became a melting pot of culinary influences – and there’s a range of different kinds of places to discover them all.
Take the city’s many food stalls, where the torta ahogada (“drowned” submarine sandwich) is the queen; the taco stands, famous for their tacos de cabeza (made with all parts of the cow’s head); cenadurías, traditional eating houses that open in the evenings; the markets that are the epicenter of the city’s neighborhoods; and the innovative restaurants that have placed Guadalajara on the map as a modern gastronomic destination.
There’s so much culinary ground to cover, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed! To get you started, here are list of tasty must-visit spots full of flavor and history, from salty to sweet and everything in between, proving that Guadalajara has something for every palate.
[See photo, Above] Carne en su Jugo Kamilos 333
Carne en su jugo (literally “meat in its juice”) was created in the mid-1960s thanks to the ingenuity of Juan José Gálvez, from Carnes Asadas El Gallo. In this restaurant, he made a dish that combined beef, fried bacon, blended tomatillos, and tomatoes, letting them simmer together. The dish is traditionally served in clay dishes, garnished with onion, cilantro, slow-cooked beans, lime, and tortillas – either with or without lard – and, of course, best enjoyed with a cold beer. What started as a hangover cure became one of Guadalajara’s most iconic dishes, found at places like Kamilos 333, which opened in 1975. This eatery was founded by Fermín Camarena García and his wife, Rosa Elena Meillón, and is now run by their son, Fermín. Kamilos 333 feels like a trip back in time with its rustic country style, where you must order not only carne en su jugo but also delicious homemade beans – and for dessert, the famous jericalla, a flan-like custard with a caramelized top.
Birriería La Victoria
One of the most beloved regional dishes among tapatíos – people born in Guadalajara – is birria, a flavorful specialty of seasoned meat. Originally made with goat meat, it is now also prepared with beef and pork. The meat receives a marinade, or birra, of a rich sauce or adobo made from ancho chile, chilacate, pepper, garlic, cinnamon, marjoram, ginger, and vinegar. Traditionally, it is slow-cooked in a clay pot in an underground pit, a method that gives it its distinctive tenderness and flavor. Every family has its favorite spot, but one we recommend is Birriería La Victoria, which opened in 1948 in the Santa Tere neighborhood, founded by Don Dionisio Juárez and his wife, Gregoria García. They serve birria made with goat, beef, or veal, available as a plated dish, in tacos, or even in a torta (Mexican sandwich), but always accompanied by extra broth to soak or drench the meat for even more flavor.
Tortas Ahogadas El Príncipe Heredero, left. No discussion of Guadalajara’s traditional cuisine would be complete without mentioning the torta ahogada. This dish originated in 1959 when Luis de la Torre, accidentally dropped a birote salado – a traditional crusty bread from Jalisco – stuffed with pork carnitas into a spicy sauce at his food stand, “El Güero.” The result was spicy, drenched, and, most importantly, wildly popular. Today, tortas ahogadas are also served with a mild or non-spicy tomato-based sauce with spices, along with toppings such as pickled onions, and sometimes beans, cabbage, or even radishes. One of the first torta shops to serve this dish was El Príncipe Heredero, located in the Mexicaltzingo neighborhood. There, Manuel Vázquez Hernández continues the business his father started 67 years ago. When ordering, it’s important to specify whether you want a “media” (half) or “completa” (full) torta. This determines just how much spicy sauce you’ll get on the torta!
Tacos al Vapor Don Fede
Tacos are simply a great example of Mexican ingenuity: whether it’s a tortilla filled with beans, cheese, beef, or pork, cooked on a griddle, grill, or comal, there’s always plenty of flavor in this small but satisfying format. And in Guadalajara, the time of day determines what kind of taco you go for. One of the morning favorites is the steamed taco or taco sudado (which literally means “sweaty taco,” referring to how it steams in its own heat). Tacos are a great example of Mexican ingenuity: whether it’s a tortilla filled with beans, cheese, beef, or pork, cooked on a griddle, grill, or comal, there’s always a lot of flavor in this small but delicious format. In Guadalajara, the time of day determines the type of taco chosen. A morning favorite is the taco al vapor or taco sudado. The latter literally means “sweaty taco,” a reference to how it’s cooked. The tacos are steamed inside an aluminum pot called a vaporera – placed atop a grate inside so as not to touch the water – which is covered to cook for about 20 minutes.
For 35 years, Federico Quintero (left) has run one of the city’s most beloved taco stands: Tacos al Vapor Don Fede. In addition to the classic fillings like potato, beans, chicharrón (fried pork skin), and shredded beef, he also offers options like mole and requesón (a type of fresh cheese) – a unique twist that has made his stand famous. To truly eat like a local, you have to “bathe” (soak) your tacos in salsa – green or red; each stand has its specialty. You’ll sometimes even end up eating them with a spoon, a skill you’ll get to practice plenty while exploring Guadalajara’s rich gastronomic culture!
Súper Tacos Rafa, below:
Tapatíos take pride in their taco-making heritage and are responsible for the best tacos de cabeza (head tacos) in the country, so-called for their use of each and every bit of this part of the cow. You can find tacos filled with eye, tongue, cheek, horn, lean meat, and brains, offering a true experience of flavors and textures, thanks to the steamed cooking technique. Tapatíos take pride in their taco-making heritage and are responsible for the best tacos de cabeza (head tacos) in the country, so-called for their use of every bit of this part of the cow. You can find tacos filled with eye, tongue, cheek, lengua (tongue), horn, lean meat, and brains, offering a true experience of flavors and textures. If you’ve never tried tacos de cabeza before, Súper Tacos Rafa is the perfect place to start. Since 1986, Rafa and his wife Mary have ruled the nighttime taco scene, and their stand is worth visiting just for their four signature salsas. If you’re feeling adventurous, order a “choribubi” – a taco filled with chorizo, ubre (udder, hence the “bubi” in the name), and your choice of beef head meat.
Cenaduría La Morenita del Santuario, below.
The heart of neighborhood cooking in Guadalajara lies in cenadurías, late-night eateries where, traditionally, women owners and cooks prepare menus based on recipes passed down from their mothers and grandmothers. Today, cenadurías are a valuable but nearly lost part of Guadalajara’s food scene. However, one that has stood the test of time as a true example of tradition is La Morenita del Santuario, founded by Doña Beatriz Hernández in 1981 in the El Santuario neighborhood. La Morenita is best known for its pozole rojo, a stew made with a chile mirasol adobo and served with pork leg, chicken, tongue, or head meat. If you’re still hungry, try a “torta estilo El Santuario,” filled with pork leg, pork loin, tongue, or salchichón (cured sausage).
Mariscos Rush
We return to street food with Mariscos Rush, a stand that Francisco Javier González has run since 1996, where he has elevated one of Guadalajara’s – and Mexico’s – most beloved eats tacos dorados. These crispy fried tacos, typically filled with potatoes or beans, get an upgrade at Rush, where they are topped with seafood, including fresh seasonal fish ceviche or smoked marlin. This surf-and-turf experience becomes even more unforgettable when you add avocado slices and their signature Rush salad, made with vegetables, onion, salt, lime, dark sauces, and olive oil. The menu also includes seafood cocktails and aguachiles, which can be served in a glass or on a tostada.
Something Sweet.
Pastelería Santa Teresita Guadalajara has a rich baking tradition, influenced by migrants from France and Belgium during the second French intervention in Mexico between 1863 and 1867, who brought their knowledge and taught the secrets of the trade. This influence led to the creation of breads that are now essential in Jalisco, including the birote, a type of baguette that is slightly saltier and crispier than its French cousin. This heritage inspired the opening of bakeries and pastry shops across the city’s neighborhoods, including Pastelería Santa Teresita, located in the neighborhood of the same name. Its oven was first fired up in 1980, and since then, it has been known for its cornbread, walnut cookies, savory and sweet empanadas, as well as traditional bakes such as pan de muerto for Día de Muertos (November 1 and 2) and rosca de reyes for Día de Reyes (January 6).
Lonches y Salsas Pajarito (above): A lonche is a sandwich of various fillings on a birote bread roll, a preparation that in other parts of Mexico is known as a torta. It is one of the most beloved fast foods among Guadalajara locals, and every family has its favorite stand. One must-visit spot is Lonches Pajarito, run by Carlos Delgado, a cook and the father of chef Fabián Delgado, who leads the restaurants palReal and Yunaites. At this establishment, you can try “El Vale Madre,” a lonche filled with stewed chicharrón and a secret salsa created by Carlos, inspired by a recipe once made at La Capilla, a famous cantina in Tequila, Jalisco. Other options include lonches with chilaquiles, egg with salsa, or beans, all best enjoyed with Pajarito hot sauce, another signature creation from this Jalisco native.
Something to Drink.
Tejuino Don Marcelino Tejuino is a beverage made from fermented corn that dates back some 600 years. Its use began in Mexico’s Indigenous communities and was used as a ceremonial drink for groups such as the Wixárikas, who live mainly in the western part of Mexico. As centuries passed, tejuino made its way into towns and cities, like Guadalajara, where today it’s still common to see vendors selling it from street carts, especially in the mornings. Served cold, it’s known for being refreshing and good for digestion. There are different ways to enjoy it, such as mixed with lime sorbet or with a sprinkle of baking soda for extra fizz. Among the most renowned “tejuineros” – the name given to those who prepare this traditional pre-Hispanic Mexican drink – is Don Manuel Ornelas, who founded “Tejuino Don Marcelino” in 1955. Today, his family continues the tradition at a stand in the IV Centenario Market, located in the La Capilla de Jesús neighborhood, famous for the high quality of its tejuino. They craft it using yellow corn and sweeten it with piloncillo (unrefined cane sugar) for a rich, sweet flavor.
