THE BREWSPAPER / SEEING RED IN SAN DIEGO

An ode to Pure Project’s GABF-winning 

Flanders-style red ale

GUEST BLOG / By Brandon Hernandez, Senior Beer Editor, West Coaster Beverage News.  Reposted by permission of West Coaster--They’re best known for various takes on lactose-infused stouts and “murky’ IPAs, but in my opinion, the brew crew at Pure Project Brewing‘s most successful offerings are their barrel-aged sour ales. And of that oak-laced stock, one of the finest is a Flanders-style red ale called Roes Red. I fell for this beer when the Miramar-based brewery first released it in stylish Italian bottles dipped in scarlet wax. So did judges at the 2016 Great American Beer Festival, where it earned a bronze medal in the Belgian-style Lambic or Sour Ale category. Tart yet balanced by a melange of woody, vinous notes from the wine and whiskey barrels it was matured in, this beer is right at home in its specialized stemware. It’s a fine creation meant to be sipped, savored, contemplated, and cherished; the type of expertly-crafted, doted-over standout that’s worthy of a love letter in this month for Valentines.

Winslow Sawyer, Head Brewer & Partner, Pure Project Brewing, San Diego area:

 “...I fell in love with sour beer when I was living in Bordeaux and tried a Flanders red at a beer bar there. When I got home, I wanted to try brewing one, so I began a yeast

culture which has actually been moving with me for the last ten years! I even had to save it from a fire in the cellar at the brewery where I used to work. After a decade of selection, this yeast has become its own unique blend designed specifically to work well in light-bodied, fruity red-wine barrels. And it is from this yeast blend that Roes Red was born at Pure Project. I named it after the Belgian town of Roeselare where the Flanders red style originally developed. Aged in French Oak from Napa Valley, it features a complex malt background of dark dates and figs, showcasing a bright cherry aroma over sour lactic and acetic strains.”

THE FOODIST / BANGKOK STREET CHEF EARNS MICHELIN STAR

Jay Fai (also known as Raan Jay Fai, "Jay Fai's shop") is a street-side restaurant in Bangkok and a nickname of its eponymous owner, whose real name is Supinya Junsuta. The restaurant mainly serves wok-cooked seafood dishes and is highly popular among food enthusiasts despite its high prices. It received one star in the inaugural Bangkok 2018 Michelin Guide.

Jay Fai's restaurant occupies a shophouse on Maha Chai Road, in the neighborhood known as Samran Rat or Pratu Phi in Bangkok's Phra Nakhon District. It is open-air and sparsely decorated, with green tiled walls and simple tables and stools for seating. Cooking takes place at the side of the shop, where the walls open onto a small alley, using two charcoal braziers. Jay Fai herself works six days a week as the restaurant's sole chef, wearing ski goggles while she cooks (the shop is closed on Sundays).

Jay Fai, 74, procures ingredients, especially seafood, directly from several sources, placing an emphasis on quality. This is reflected in her prices, which are much higher than regular street fare. One of her more famous dishes, for example, (see top photo) is a crab-meat omelet that costs upwards of 1,000 baht (over US $30). Other popular dishes include rat na and phat khi mao with seafood (See photo below).

A serving of phat khi mao at Jay Fai's, showing a large prawn typical at the restaurant

The restaurant has been famous among food enthusiasts for decades. In a 1999 review, Bangkok Post food critic Ung-aang Talay (Bob Halliday) described her as "one of those increasingly rare Mozarts of the noodle pan who can transform very ordinary, lunchtime-at-the-market dishes into masterpieces of local cuisine". Famous customers include Martha Stewart, who called Jay Fai "the best cook in Thailand".

In December 2017, the Michelin Guide released its inaugural 2018 edition for Bangkok, in which the restaurant was awarded one star. It was the only street restaurant to be awarded a star, and joins a handful of others in Hong Kong and Singapore as a result of Michelin's efforts to diversify its coverage, previously limited to fine dining establishments. The award resulted in a surge of customers for Jay Fai, who had never heard of the guide before and had to be persuaded to attend the ceremony. Following the announcement, the restaurant became so busy that it had to implement a reservations system (something she previously refused to do), and one of Jay Fai's daughters had to leave her job in order to help full-time (in addition to another, who already worked at the restaurant).

Jay Fai, who has never written down a recipe, has said that she does not intend to pass on the business, as she does not wish her children to pick up the hard work since it has earned enough. --Wikipeda, 2020.

LOCATION:

327 Maha Chai Road, Bangkok, Thailand