COFFEE BEANS & BEINGS / FIVE KYOTO COFFEE HOUSES WORTH THE DETOUR

Kyoto has no shortage of cafés aimed at visitors, but its best coffee houses still possess distinct personalities. These five are especially accessible to American travelers because of their locations, recognizable coffee styles, English-language service or menus, and strong international reputations. 

There are no reliable statistics separating American customers from other foreign visitors, so “popular with Americans” is based on English-language travel coverage and visitor reviews. 

INODA COFFEE—MAIN SHOP Address: 140 Doyu-cho, Sakaimachi-dori, Sanjo-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-8118. Photo above.

Operator: Inoda Coffee Company Limited; founded by Shichiro Inoda; company representative Toshitaka Maeda 

Hours: 7 a.m.–6 p.m. daily Telephone: 075-221-0507 Inoda is the grand old salon of Kyoto coffee. Founded as a bean business in 1940, it opened its first café here in 1947. The main shop combines a traditional townhouse with a decidedly European dining room, formally dressed waiters and a pleasant courtyard. Order the house “Arabian Pearl” coffee and allow the staff to serve it in the established Kyoto manner—with milk and sugar already added unless you object. American visitors appreciate the substantial breakfast, accommodating service and atmosphere of civilized ritual. This is not third-wave minimalism. It is an old-fashioned morning performance, polished by nearly eight decades of repetition. 

###

SMART COFFEE Address: 537 Tenshojimae-cho, Teramachi-dori, Sanjo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-8081 

Owner-operator: Third-generation proprietor Akira Motoki and family 

Hours: 8 a.m.–7 p.m.; second-floor lunch service 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. 

Telephone: 075-231-6547 

Smart Coffee has occupied Kyoto’s covered Teramachi shopping arcade since 1932. Its dark wood, upholstered booths and German roasting machine offer American travelers the comfortable pleasure of discovering Japan’s version of a midcentury coffee shop. 

The attraction is divided evenly between the coffee and breakfast sweets: thick French toast, beautifully browned hotcakes and old-fashioned pudding. Motoki roasts the beans himself, continuing a family business now in its third generation. An English menu, central location and easy walk from Kyoto City Hall make Smart unusually approachable. Lines form during the breakfast rush, so arrive early and linger over a second cup. 

###

WEEKENDERS COFFEE TOMINOKOJI 

Address: 560 Honeyanocho, Tominokoji-dori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-8064 

Owners: Masahiro and Ayumi Kaneko 

Hours: Approximately 7:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; ordinarily closed Wednesday 

Telephone: 075-746-2206 

Weekenders [photo, above] is concealed behind a parking lot near Nishiki Market, but the unlikely entrance is part of its charm. Masahiro and Ayumi Kaneko established their café in 2005 and began roasting in 2011. Their tiny Tominokoji shop combines exacting contemporary coffee with clay walls, timber beams, bamboo and a small Japanese garden. Americans accustomed to independent roasters will recognize the light-roast approach, carefully prepared espresso and single-origin pour-overs. 

What they will not recognize is the setting: a remarkably serene fragment of old Kyoto hidden behind parked automobiles. Seating is scarce, making this a place for excellent coffee rather than an afternoon with the laptop. You will impress your hosts knowing about this coffee wonder.

###

KURASU KYOTO STAND 

Address: 552 Higashiaburano-koji-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto 600-8235 

Owner-operator: Kurasu LLC; founder and director Yozo Otsuki 

Hours: Generally 8 a.m.–6 p.m.; check before visiting 

Telephone: 075-744-0804 

Five minutes from Kyoto Station, Kurasu provides an easy introduction to the city’s modern specialty-coffee culture. Founder Yozo Otsuki launched the business in Australia as an online source for Japanese household goods before returning to Kyoto and concentrating on coffee. 

The small stand serves beans roasted at Kurasu’s Nishijin roastery and sells handsome Japanese brewing equipment. Its internationally trained baristas are comfortable discussing coffee in English, removing much of the uncertainty for first-time American visitors. 

There are only four stools, but that compactness encourages conversation. Stop upon arriving in Kyoto, order a pour-over and leave with useful advice—and perhaps a dripper—for the journey ahead. 

###

% ARABICA KYOTO HIGASHIYAMA 

Address: 87-5 Hoshino-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto 605-0853 

Founder: Kenneth Shoji 

Hours: Approximately 8 a.m.–6 p.m. daily Telephone: 075-746-3669 

% Arabica occupies an enviable position on Yasaka Street, within sight of the famous Yasaka Pagoda and along the tourist route toward Kiyomizu-dera. 

Founder Kenneth Shoji chose Kyoto for the company’s first Japanese shop because he wanted the brand identified with the ancient capital. American customers will find familiar espresso drinks, a sharply modern interior and one of Kyoto’s most photographed coffee-shop façades. The Spanish latte is the indulgent choice; espresso or drip coffee better displays the beans. Expect a line and limited seating. The coffee is good, but the principal pleasure is carrying it into one of Kyoto’s loveliest historic neighborhoods. 

RETRO FILES / WHAT ELSE HAPPENED ON THIS DATE IN WORLD HISTORY

 

Reader Alert: This article is not intended to diminish the horror of the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks or the profound and continuing grief caused by the loss of life that day. We condemned those attacks then, and we mourn their victims now. Our purpose as journalists with an interest in history is simply to recognize that other significant—and sometimes positive—events have also occurred around the world on September 11. This article examines those lesser-known chapters of history. 

 1789 - Alexander Hamilton became America's first treasury secretary. George Washington nominated him, the Senate confirmed him, and Hamilton took the oath that same day. He proceeded to build much of the young nation's financial system. U.S. Treasury 

 1814 - An invasion of the United States was stopped. American naval and land forces won the Battle of Plattsburgh on Lake Champlain, forcing a much larger British invasion force to withdraw and strengthening the American position in negotiations that ended the War of 1812. Naval History and Heritage Command 

 

1851 - Jenny Lind (right), gave a celebrated benefit concert. The enormously popular Swedish singer performed at Castle Garden in New York, donating substantial proceeds to charities. The concert occurred during her historic American tour promoted by P.T. Barnum. 

 1893 - The modern interfaith movement took an important step forward. The World's Parliament of Religions opened in Chicago, bringing representatives of numerous faiths together for organized international dialogue. Swami Vivekananda delivered his famous appeal for tolerance and religious fellowship. 

 1928 - Television learned how to tell a story. General Electric's experimental station in Schenectady broadcast The Queen's Messenger, generally recognized as the first dramatic production written or adapted for television. 

 1951 - San Diego swimmer Florence Chadwick made history. She became the first woman to swim the English Channel in both directions. Her September 11 crossing from England to France took 16 hours and 22 minutes through fog and difficult currents.  

1967 - Surveyor 5 landed safely on the Moon. After engineers overcame a potentially disastrous helium leak, the robotic craft touched down in the Sea of Tranquility. It conducted the first chemical analysis of soil on another world and helped establish that the region was safe for Apollo astronauts.  

 1985 - Pete Rose collected hit No. 4,192. Playing for Cincinnati, Rose singled off San Diego Padres pitcher Eric Show and surpassed Ty Cobb's long-standing major-league career record. Rose eventually finished with 4,256 hits. Show sits on mound as the game was interrupted for several minutes to honor Rose's accomplishment.

1997 - Mars Global Surveyor reached Mars. The NASA spacecraft entered Martian orbit and began a mission that fundamentally improved scientists' understanding of the planet's surface, atmosphere and geological history. 

 September 11 was also the birthday of several people whose work enriched the world: short-story master O. Henry in 1862, novelist D.H. Lawrence in 1885, football coach Paul "Bear" Bryant in 1913 and composer Arvo P√§rt in 1935. 

 So, yes: long before 2001, September 11 was a date of exploration, courage, invention, athletic achievement and attempts to bring people of different beliefs together.