Multilectual Daily Online Magazine focusing on World Architecture, Travel, Photography, Interior Design, Vintage and Contemporary Fiction, Political cartoons, Craft Beer, All things Espresso, International coffee/ cafe's, occasional centrist politics and San Diego's Historic North Park by award-winning journalist Tom Shess
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Thursday, October 31, 2013
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
ARCHIVE /NORTH PARK IN THE NEWS
"BREWS BY THE BAY" WITH MIKE HESS BREWING
If you’re missing this
weekend’s opening of San Diego Beer Week (what could be more important?),
there’s a cool event next week, Nov. 7 at 6:30 pm , where North Park brewer
Mike Hess is part of a cuisine/craft beer pairing at the stunning new Baleen
restaurant at the Paradise Point resort.
Set on an island in the middle of Mission Bay, Baleen makes you quickly
forget you’re in the middle of a big city.
The CoinOp Arcade at night. Note outdoor seating and wide open doors and windows Photo: Anna Lee Fleming, San Diego Home/Garden Lifestyles |
Brewery founder Mike Hess,
true to the signature style of both chef and craft brewer, features a
half-dozen drafts and complementary dishes that capture the sophisticated
flavors of San Diego. Pairing tix: $59
per. Reservation’s strongly recommended especially since it’s Beer Week. (858)
274-4630. Credit card required to hold space.
ARCADE IS OPEN
The restaurant/bar
operation that took the place of El Take it Easy is
now open. Called the CoinOp, the new games arcade, food and bar emporium is across 30th Street from Caffe Calabria and Il Postino). Another great place to explore in the “Hood.
IT’S OFFICIAL
David Cohen takes over North Park Theatre. Photo courtesy San Diego Metro Business Briefs |
David Cohen and his
restaurant group has finalized ownership of the Birch North Park Theatre. Cohen’s ventures in North Park include True
North and West Coast Tavern. There will be plenty of updates in the foodie
media on this. Looking forward to taking
in a slice of pizza and libation to view a theatre event. Stay tuned.
News sources on above: Hillary Townsend, Anna Lee Fleming and San
Diego Metro.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SUDS BEFORE THE START OF SAN DIEGO’S FAMOUS BEER WEEK
AND REMEMBER WHEN IT COMES TO CRAFT BEER—STYLE IS EVERYTHING
By Sam Tierney
Columnist,
WEST COASTER Beer Magazine
Republished courtesy of www.westcoastersd.com
LET’S GO BACK TO WHEN THE EARTH WAS COOLING. In the beginning, there were no beer styles, there
was only beer. Traveling here or there about the ancient world, you would have
encountered unique beverages based on local ingredients and techniques.
Communication was poor and brewing knowledge was fragmented and slow to spread.
Over the centuries, regions
and even individual towns and cities developed distinct brewing styles that set
their beers apart from others. When new technologies or ingredients were
introduced, there were sometimes splits in the local brewing community and new
styles were formed. The introduction of hops to the British Isles led to the
fragmentation of the brewing industry into beer breweries that adopted the new
spice, and ale breweries that stuck with the old gruit spices they had been
using for centuries.
In Europe, there were
guilds of white beer breweries that used wind-dried wheat malt, while
neighboring brown and red beer brewers made dark, smokey beers from wood
fire-kilned malts.
We’ll never know how many
times a brewer came back from a trip somewhere and said, “I really want to brew
a beer like they brew in that super rad town I just came back from. Why don’t
we make beer like that here?” There are a few examples we can point to though;
some of the most storied stylistic milestones have come attached to tales of
traveling brewers. Pilsner was invented after Czech brewers learned from the
English how to make pale malt, and a Bavarian brewmaster then brought his local
lager yeast into the equation.
At Rodenbach in West
Flanders, they credit their founding brewmaster’s time studying porter brewing
in England for the original invention of their sour, wood-aged red ale.
Population migrations have also spread brewing styles and techniques around the
world. Lager brewing took hold in North and South America due principally to
the mass immigration of central Europeans in the 19th century.
BEER EVOLUTION IS GOOD. Thus, we have the modern spectrum of beer styles.
As communication between brewers proliferated, it became common to brew several
styles of beer using varied ingredients and techniques. Even in the oldest
brewing centers, styles of other regions had been adopted and tweaked into
local variations. Munich was once steadfastly a dark lager town until the
popularity of golden Bohemian lagers finally won out; the pale-but-malty helles
lager is currently the dominant tipple in town. Nearly everywhere else in the world,
the dry, low-hopped, often adjunct-lightened style of international pale lager
is now the most popular and dominantly brewed style of beer. In the US, small
brewers now brew pretty much every style ever heard of, with more unique beers
continuously coming out.
The late, great beer writer Michael Jackson |
Our modern understanding of
beer styles can be traced back to the work of the late, great beer writer
Michael Jackson and specifically his 1977 book, The World Guide To Beer.
Jackson traveled extensively in the traditional beer countries, observing the
styles unique to each location and recording what he found. Brewing texts had
previously described various types of beer from around the world, but Jackson’s
extensive organizing of styles formed the base for most of what we understand
about style today. His classifications were based heavily on place of origin
and describe mostly styles that are traditional to European countries, though
he did describe American styles of the time like cream ale, steam beer, and
malt liquor.
DIFFERENCE IN BEER RATINGS. Style guidelines like the Beer Judge Certification
Program guidelines and the Brewers Association guidelines built on this initial
framework and created extensive descriptions of many styles for the purpose of
judging amateur and commercial beers, respectively. The guidelines are tailored
so that beers entered into competition can be judged against a stylistic
standard that allows the personal preferences of judges to be mitigated.
Without style guidelines, judging would be an essentially hedonistic exercise,
with judges selecting their favorite beers as the winners.
Beer rating website
Ratebeer.com conversely encourages such a hedonistic approach to rating beers,
as opposed to the stylistic approach of beer competitions. A quick look over
the top-rated beers clearly illustrates the result of generally disregarding
guidelines in competition, as the top beers are overwhelmingly imperial stouts,
which is apparently the most favored style of Ratebeer users. This upsets some
people, but it must be noted that the aim of the overall Ratebeer rankings is
to identify the commercial beers that consumers find the most excellent
according to their personal preferences. Ratebeer also includes best-of lists
broken down by style category, which are more similar to the results you would
see in style-based competitions. Style categories on rating sites are a bit
different from competition guidelines and, especially with Ratebeer, they tend
to be broader and less defined. They are an attempt to cleanly separate every known
beer in the world into an accurate grouping, so there will necessarily be some
vague styles that cover a lot of unique beers. Beer Advocate takes a slightly
more specific approach and tends to break beers down into more specific styles.
Max Moran at San Diego's Indian Joe Brewing, where 20+ beers in a variety of styles are always on tap |
BEYOND MICHAEL JACKSON. Style guidelines are a human attempt to categorize
a human endeavor, often crossing culture and time in the process. Naturally,
there will be opinion and compromise in their creation. Jackson had the benefit
of a much less dynamic and varied brewing industry back in the 70s when he
formed his taxonomy. American beer was essentially a handful of styles at the
time, with only several truly unique styles to worry about. In Europe, there
were some very established and clearly defined styles in existence that in many
cases simply needed to be properly named and described.
Beers like bock and
hefeweizen were already clearly defined, even legally in Germany, which has
always been the most rigid culture in regards to beer style, owing in large
part to their Reinheitsgebot beer purity law. In the absence of previously
recognized styles, Jackson did his best to describe what he found at the time,
sometimes creating style groupings that brewers and drinkers at the time had
not themselves adopted, such as the Flemish red style, which was a disparate
combination of mixed-fermentation beers from Flanders. Belgian beers on the
whole were mostly a blend of many somewhat-related beers that sometimes shared
names. Belgian styles remain somewhat enigmatic, and many Belgian brewers still
brew in their own unique style.
WARP SPEED.
Those challenges look like child’s play compared to what we face today in
attempting to keep up on stylistic categorization. As the “New World” style of
brewing has spread like wildfire across the world, beer styles are spawning and
evolving at breakneck speed. What we have previously taken as gospel is no
longer safe; however, a careful reading of history shows us that this is really
nothing new. For example, mild ale is today understood as a low gravity,
lightly-hopped ale that is usually dark in color, and has been since about
World War Two.
In the mid-19th century
though, mild ales were often the same strength and color as modern American
IPA, and hopped almost as highly. At the time, “mild” simply referred to the
fact that the beer was not aged before consumption, as beers like IPA and
Porter were at the time. Porter and stock pale ale, spending months aging in
oak, would have had much of the character that we associate with sour and wild
ale today.
Styles are simply in a
constant state of flux; shifting economic pressures, brewing technology, and
consumer tastes have pulled all of them in various directions over the decades.
Any codification is really just a snapshot of their state at a particular point
in time. We can argue for days over which version of a style is the most
“authentic,” but in the end, they are all equally valid.
As I have made my way into
a brewing career, first as a novice homebrewer learning the basics of crafting
different styles, and then finally as a professional, considering style as a
marketing tool, I have come to realize that brewers understand style in a way
that is simply different from how most non-brewer beer drinkers do. Brewers can
never disconnect the “how” from the “what” with regards to the role of the
brewing process and ingredients in the end product. Most drinkers are perfectly
happy to think of a stout as a black beer with strong roasted malt flavors
reminiscent of coffee or chocolate.
MANY HOPPY RETURNS. Most brewers think of a stout as an ale with a
significant portion of roasted barley or malt, possible dark caramel malt
additions, and a base of pale or pale ale malt. They will then consider how
varying the amount of hop bitterness and aroma, overall strength, yeast strain,
or specific roasted malt composition can pull a stout across the various
sub-styles like foreign, sweet, oatmeal, American, Irish, Baltic, Russian
imperial, or porter for that matter, as most brewers recognize that that porter
and stout are essentially the same thing.
What a brewer ends up
calling a beer depends heavily on what term they think will lead to the best
sales. This is illustrated quite well right now with the proliferation of the
IPA style as a catch-all for any hoppy beer. Many hoppy beers that were
previously grouped in other styles like American wheat, red ale, or pale ale
are now being called wheat IPA, red IPA, and session IPA because IPA has gained
mass recognition among most beer drinkers, instantly catching their attention
in the beer aisle or at the bar. It’s simply easier to sell someone a red IPA
than a red ale with a description clarifying that the beer is hopped at levels
similar to an American IPA. I’m not the biggest fan of this evolution, but it
is clearly the way the market is shifting right now.
Styles galore at Best Damn Beer Shop Downtown San Diego |
Styles are an easy
shorthand method for brewers to communicate the basic characteristics of a beer
to their drinkers. Even as styles drift away from their original cultural
history and character, they remain relevant because we generally still agree on
what their basic character should be. Imagine if you walked into a brewpub or
bar and there were no styles posted for any of the beers, just a list of
ingredients, technical specifications, and flavor descriptors. Those with
enough knowledge could use this information to find the kind of beer they were
looking for, but even so, this kind of system is simply too long-winded and
lacks the directness that recognized styles have. When considering bottled beer
at the store, brewers often only have room for a few words on the label to
catch your eye as you peruse a myriad of options. A simple “IPA” on the front
of the label is a much more effective means of communicating what your beer is
like than a wall of text explaining that it is a medium-to-high-strength,
light-colored ale with generous hop aroma and bitterness. Obviously, this kind
of description can be useful as a counterpart to the main style name, but does
not possess the same clarity and directness.
STRAIGHTJACKETS OF EXPECTATION. A brewer recently told me that styles are a great
starting point when coming up with new beers, but, on the other hand, they can
become straightjackets of expectation. When you see IPA or pilsner on a label,
you have expectations for the beer based on your past experiences. If that beer
doesn’t deliver on those expectations, you are likely to look upon it less
favorably, despite how good of a beer it might be on its own terms. Further
complicating this, many people have received dubious information about many
beer styles and subsequently have misconceptions about them. Putting a name
like pilsner on your label can hurt you from both sides, with many drinkers
associating the style with macro lagers, while typical light beer drinkers looking
to branch out may find the beer undrinkably hoppy. The bottom line is that
everyone has their own unique prejudices with different beer styles and you
just can’t account for all of them.
The ebb and flow of styles
can be a confusing yet exciting ride, so get out there and explore new styles,
read up on the classics, and try to build a solid understanding of the spectrum
of beer styles. Studies show that knowledge about a subject increases chances
of enjoyment, and there are worse things out there to spend time learning about
than beer.
Tuesday, October 29, 2013
SOMEONE ACTUALLY WANTS THIS JOB
MAYOR CANDIDATES DEBATE—A debate between the top four candidates for San
Diego mayor is set for Wednesday, October 30, under the sponsorship of the SD
County Taxpayers Association.
The luncheon and debate
will be from Noon until 2 pm at the Wyndham San Diego Bayside Hotel, 1355 North
Harbor Drive, downtown.
Candidates are former
California Assemblyman Nathan Fletcher, former City Attorney Mike Aguirre,
incumbent San Diego City Councilmembers David Alvarez and Kevin Faulconer.
Admission is $40 for
members of the taxpayers group and $50 for non-members.
Info: Jenna Harris at jenna@sdcta.org
Monday, October 28, 2013
100 YEAR OLD GRAPHIC DESIGN CONTEST /MEDIA MEMOS
PUBLIC INVITED--Leave Your Stamp on the 2015 Balboa
Park Celebration!
Be part of the fun by
helping to create the first official Centennial Postcard. Edited photos and
creative designs are all welcome, anyone can participate!
Colleague note: Media based
graphic designers can shine by winning and thus adding a “gold star” to your
name, career and media boss. OK, it
isn’t a Cadillac but you’ll be famous 100 years from now when reporters like me
are searching for 2115 centennial story ideas.
Learn more about the
contest here:
http://www.balboapark.org/2015/contests/leaveyourstamp
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