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Thursday, October 1, 2026

ON WRITING / AUTHOR-PROF, GEORGE SAUNDERS MULLS AI

Professor, Author George Saunders

Recently Substack launched "Model Behavior," a series that asks top writers, thinkers, critics and creators to tell us honestly how they think about and use AI.  First up is George Saunders, a true literary titan. In addition to writing award-winning books and short stories, George teaches the craft of writing to graduate students in the Creative Writing Program at Syracuse University and to the many who read his advice, analysis, and reflections on storytelling in his Substack, Story Club with George Saunders. 

     Naturally, we were curious about George’s experiences with AI as a working writer and professor. But we also wondered how AI might inform his fiction. He often explores speculative near futures: pharmaceuticals that manipulate our most intimate emotions; virtual experiences that stand in for memory; human beings turned into consumer products. 

For Substack, Arielle Swedback asked if AI inspires him creatively and whether it’s changed his teaching, writing practice, or thinking on the disclosures writers owe their readers. He opened the interview with a disclosure of his own: 

GEORGE SAUNDERS: “I’m somewhat cranky and monotonous on this topic. Just, throughout (this intereview), imagine me banging my cane on the floor.” 

ARIELLE SWEDBACK: Has your relationship to AI changed since it was first released as a widely accessible consumer product? 

GS:  No. Very early on, I did that thing where I asked AI to generate some text in my voice, and the result was so dispiriting—so dull and literal—that I lost interest. I don’t have any AI products and don’t want any. I would, in fact, pay not to have them and would pay extra to stop them from sneakily titrating themselves into existing products, like, for example, probably, the likely forthcoming AI fork that assesses your angle of food-entry and tells you how efficiently you’re eating compared to others in your demographic and so on. 

AS:  How does George Saunders—the person, not the writer—use AI day to day? 

GS:  He tries to avoid it, although he sometimes screws up by forgetting to add “- ai” in his searches. I don’t consider myself qualified to talk about the use of AI in medicine or science or any of that. But in writing I find it completely unappealing. 

AS: Have you spent time trying to write or revise with AI? Is there an experiment that would be interesting enough to try? 

GS:  I have not. Not for a second. To me, this whole idea of using AI to write is . . . anathema. A thing to be most radically avoided. Writing is the most precious way one person can communicate their essence to another person. I’ve spent a lifetime trying to get better at making myself present in my writing. Why would I want to sacrifice even one iota of that? Not even in an email and certainly not in a short story or novel. Who are we ceding our authority to, exactly, when we let AI write for us? And why? Why surrender our agency (that amazing ability we have to reach across time and space, with our strange, idiosyncratic phenomenon, and land within the sensibility of another human being) to something that, by its very design, pushes the individual sensibility aside? And in the name of . . . what, exactly? Ease, I guess? Efficiency? The person who chooses to write with AI has also sacrificed, from the start, the opportunity of experiencing difficulty, of struggling to say what he wants to say, of making himself evident in his prose, of trying to find out what he believes. By this, he sacrifices a chance to know himself and his mind better. To me, that’s a shame. And it’s dangerous, because, as we are now finding out, it affects the brain and lessens our capabilities. Thanks, but no thanks, get thee behind me, etc. In the end, will AI be there to guide us across to the other side and soothe our fears? (God, I hope not, but maybe we’ll all have DeathCope 3.0 loaded into our MindChip, and the last thing we’ll hear will be Claude, going, “You’ve got this!”) 

AS: You teach writers to become more sensitive to their own reactions as a way to revise and improve their work. Given that AI can generate endless material to react to, could you see a way it might sharpen a writer’s editorial instincts? 

GS:  No—they can use their own work to do that perfectly well. The human mind can generate that “endless material” and, what’s more, there’s something germinative and essential in one’s messy first draft—the mess the writer herself has made. There’s some flavor in there unique to that writer’s mind. So editing one’s own text is more organic and beneficial than editing the text AI gives you when prompted. In other words, the way we prompt ourselves and then respond to that prompt is . . . the beginning of what is going to be unique about our book. Even in that very first draft, you, the writer, are in there, inextricably and importantly. I would never want to sacrifice that. There’s some important thought-contour present . . . inherent in the small errors and imprecisions your mind has seeded in that early draft. There’s value in the writer, at that point, not yet being on the path but wandering around it. Your mess, worked on with your mind, produces something extra somehow: your mess has more you in it, that can then get refined, through revision, into something that is utterly you. 

AS:  How has AI changed the way you teach? 

GS: Honestly, it hasn’t. I only teach grad students who have been chosen out of hundreds of applicants and are all obsessed with finding their own voices and discovering their own truths. They don’t use AI in their work, for that very reason. They want it to be their work. When I read a novel or story, what do I want? I want the writer’s full experience, as expressed in the subterfuge of a made-up story. I want her life experience, her aesthetic feelings (and even biases); I want that subtle record, that is there in her prose, of every book she’s read and where and when she read it, and how it subtly altered that younger version of her—how it moved her and changed the voice in her head—I want all of that, and I want it from a person. That’s its whole value, that it comes from another person. She and I are in communication. I want to see what that person (who is the result of all those years and losses and ecstatic moments and so on) thinks about this world we share, and I want her to show me by making something up. I don’t want anything else—not some sort of machine-averaged or -excerpted regurgitation of other people’s words, no matter how fast or seamlessly this can be produced. It’s amazing that AI can do that, but I’m not interested in it. And I think it’s harmful and dangerous to give over too easily this precious human thing called storytelling. Storytelling is something humans do, a human-to-human, highly advanced, nuanced code, a super-intelligence all our own. It doesn’t work without two humans in it. And it’s not a neutral decision, to give that up, but, like so many things these days, we seem to be doing it because . . . it can be done. (“I can make a drawing of a cat driving a snowmobile in the style of Rembrandt!” “I can make an album though I know nothing about music and can’t play an instrument!” “I can redo my resume in 10 seconds!” “I can get a first draft of my novel by giving AI a rough outline!”) But: Is it your resume? Is it your novel? Did you have a sufficient hand in it? Or did you just unwittingly sacrifice a precious chance at originality or idiosyncrasy that might have spoken, in some subtle and irreducible way, to the person reading the thing? Anyway . . . it seems to me that we’re doing this slow drift into AI-aided writing without the sort of serious public discourse that admits to the possibility that, just because we can do something, that doesn’t mean we should; that there are activities that distract and lessen us and activities that bring us to live more fully in the moment we’re in. We get to decide what to do with this precious human life, and we should make that decision with the utmost seriousness. And “declining” or “demurring” is a valid, sometimes wise, option. There is something magical and transformative about working through a piece of writing, taking it from “blurry crap” to “precisely what I mean, and then some.” We are now finding out that this is true neurologically: struggling through reading or writing a long-form piece does magical, essential things to one’s brain, i.e. to one’s essential personhood. 

AS: Has it changed the problems and questions new writers bring into your classroom, or are the fundamental insecurities of becoming a writer the same as they’ve always been? 

GS: I think they’re the same. Because my students are involved in the same old, honorable, ancient pursuit: trying to make up, out of their individual and idiosyncratic minds, a story that will speak to other human minds. AI can’t play that game, de facto. (It can look like it’s doing it, but it’s not.) I should say, though, that I don’t teach undergrads, and I know that AI use is a big issue in that world. I’d make the same argument re undergrad teaching as I’ve made above, but I do realize that general undergrad students aren’t under the same self-applied imperative to find a voice and are likely not as enamored of literature or as convinced of its value as my creative-writing MFA students, and therefore might be more inclined to take the easy path when asked to, say, write an essay about a work by Tolstoy. Still, that choice represents a real loss to their education. When I used to teach undergrads, I always tried to impress on them that language is power—not only because, through writing, one can learn to express oneself better and thereby empower oneself, but because there is something magical and transformative about working through a piece of writing, taking it from “blurry crap” to “precisely what I mean, and then some.” We are now finding out that this is true neurologically: struggling through reading or writing a long-form piece does magical, essential things to one’s brain, i.e. to one’s essential personhood (see The New Dark Ages, by James Marriott [out Oct. 6]). So if I were still teaching undergrads, I’d attempt that sort of argument. But I’d say it in this creepy robot voice I can do, so they’d think it was AI saying it. If AI vanished, we’d still be in deep shit down here, and would also still be in paradise down here. What does AI offer us when we consider life to be an urgent chance to understand our (embodied, vulnerable) existence? 

AS:  As a teacher of writing, do you feel a pressure to experiment with or learn about AI? Is it important to you that you can speak knowledgeably and specifically about these tools? 

GS: No. I think I know enough, right now, about the process of writing a story to speak knowledgeably and specifically about these tools. By my definition of writing, writing with AI isn’t. Isn’t writing. One can do it, of course, and people are, and will—but it’s not the thing that I love and have lived for. I want to be a person and speak to other people. End of story. So I find myself mourning the collective loss of a certain ability, which is to be capable of saying: “Yes, that’s amazing, but it seems destructive. Not only in terms of natural resources, but in terms of human capability. So . . . no thanks. I opt out. Just . . . no.” (In the words of Melville’s Bartleby the Scrivener: “I [would] prefer not to.”) 

AS:  The studies are showing it: using AI erodes our mental capabilities. Why do we want that? 

GS: One feels that the answer has to do with consumerist momentum. (“But it’s new! And easier! It’s inevitable!”) One also feels the pressure from above created by the trillions of dollars invested by hyper-rich people. AI is becoming, it seems, “too big to fail.” But it’s still (in my view) a big nothing in terms of artistic writing, since art is by people, for people, and reflects and is dependent upon the experience of having moved through (and heard and smelled and seen and had feelings about) the actual world. AI writing can’t do that. It just can’t. It can look like it’s doing that but, by its nature, it can’t be what we have always called artistic writing. Now, I’m not saying it can’t be impressive and sound like artistic writing. And I’m sure that a mind, put in front of a piece of AI writing, will do something—the reading will cause some sort of reaction in the brain. (Of course it will; a mind will react even when reading a phone book or a random sequence of words.) But that’s no big thing, the mind flickering in response to a text. It’s the quality of the flickering that matters. We want a shaped flickering, a flickering that responds to authorial intention. We’re looking for some indication of authorial wisdom, wisdom gleaned from life in the world, that shows up, sometimes in complicated and transmuted form, in the text. But considering the source, and the process by which AI makes text, AI can’t be originally wise—as I understand it, it can only recontextualize and reorder other peoples’ wisdom. Maybe some people find it fun to be exposed to this—to me, it seems like a distraction, especially given that life is short and I still find myself in an urgent struggle to understand my own mind and express something beautiful out of that mind and all the things it has been through, something shaped by me, me personally, that will go out and move you (you, personally). And maybe the AI that is coming will be doing more than that recontextualizing and reordering—but it’s going to be doing that outside the realm of embodiment. In a sense, that’s what we have (and are burdened with) that AI isn’t: bodies. Also, mortality, and all the anxiety that comes with it, and that feeling of being at a beautiful party that is ending, but no one can tell us just when. Imagine a remarkably human sexbot, that moves and talks and feels like a person and you have sex with that sexbot and it feels very real. Guess what you haven’t done? Had sex. With a person. You haven’t been approved of, or desired; you haven’t given pleasure or satisfaction (or run the risk of failing at these). No matter how it felt, it wasn’t real, i.e. the thing we all want. Remember what Raymond Carver said: “And what did you want? To call myself beloved, to feel myself beloved on the earth.” The unspoken implication: to be beloved by some other person, a person like me, in a body, on a mortality-timer. 

AS: You’ve written that your biggest fear is that we’ll enter a market so saturated that readers lose the ability to tell human writing from AI-generated writing. Do you think disclosure is an obligation to the reader? Should it become the professional norm? 

GS:  I’m not sure. I guess it would only be fair (?). I think a very adept reader will be able to tell—but most of us are middling readers at best. So we might imagine a world where we were constantly being force-fed Muzak all the time, even in concert halls. Eventually the aesthetic adjusts downward. My guess is this is already happening, just from the preponderance of lite/internet/phone reading we’re always doing—I have felt it happening to me, for sure. Why do we care? Because writing changes the way we think. And the way we think makes . . . the world. If we think with compassion and become more comfortable with ambiguity and complexity and become more patient and curious—the world changes for the better. The inverse has been happening over the last 20 or so years, and I’m guessing that the coarsening of our public discourse is related to the degradation of our reading habits. Garbage in, garbage out, and then the world becomes garbage and we don’t even notice it anymore. 

AS:  Much of the conversation around AI safety focuses on catastrophic scenarios like hacking and bioweapons. Are there risks you think deserve more attention than they’re getting? 

GS: Well, the degradation of natural resources and the preponderance of ugly, noisy, community-crushing data centers, for sure. We mustn’t separate that from the thing itself—as AI gets huge, so will its draw on our resources. But also, as discussed above, let’s keep in mind the danger of assuming that ease is everything—that nothing is gained from struggle and involvement in a discipline. There’s also something about AI knowledge that, for my taste, is too literal and linear. You ask it, it tells you. But we all know that sometimes knowledge lies in contradiction—the existence of two or more truths hovering there in the mind, acquired from disparate sources, a mind tinged with intuition and doubt and so on. There’s sometimes deep value in not knowing—in not being able, yet, to quite say. There’s value in “continuing to wonder,” in moving through the world aware that you aren’t quite sure, i.e. in feeling that mystery is real and that the limited nature of our minds must be taken into account—that is, there’s utilitarian value in humility. 

AS:  You’ve often written speculative and near-future fiction. Does this moment in AI inspire you creatively? Do you find yourself wanting to explore it through fiction? 

GS:  Yes, for sure. Here’s a good one: Robotics advance to the point where an AI mind can be embedded in a body that moves around and sees and can smell and hear and so on. This influences and informs the AI mind. One day, that guy—that combo of robot body and mind—wants to tell how things are for him, and so he writes a book. What would that book sound like? Would you want to read it? I would. I’m not sure where that story goes, but I like the idea. Or: The world has been taken over by AI, and one day, an AI discovers an even higher form of AI. It spreads like wildfire and threatens the existence of those AI agents. Do they resist? 

AS:  And finally, what’s the role of the human writer in an AI-mediated world? 

GS: To not let AI mediate his world. Think of it this way: there’s plenty to do, right now, with just these minds we’ve been given: fight our anxiety, temper our cruelty, foster loving-kindness, try to figure out just what a mind is and what sort of trap it’s making for us in every moment. (Or: learn to skate, make a better omelet, play Bach, etc.) These things make up the (honorable, pleasurable) work of a lifetime. In what way does AI make life better, really? And for whom? In the end, will AI be there to guide us across to the other side and soothe our fears? (God, I hope not, but maybe we’ll all have DeathCope 3.0 loaded into our MindChip, and the last thing we’ll hear will be Claude, going, “You’ve got this!”) There are things to do, deep things, the deepest things, with this mind and this body, things humans have been trying and failing to do (and sometimes succeeding in doing) for eons. Things we can do to and with and for others. If AI vanished, we’d still be in deep shit down here, and would also still be in paradise down here. What does AI offer us when we consider life to be an urgent chance to understand our (embodied, vulnerable) existence? Is it possible that it’s just a massive distraction? Of course, if AI can cure cancer, bravo. I’m all for it. But even with cancer cured, death will still arrive somehow, and getting ourselves ready for that—and trying, meanwhile, to live in a sane way, given that we’re down here with others who are also dying—that, to me, is the essential thing. 

AS:  George Saunders is opposed to using AI in his writing process. We asked him to tell us how he revises, to give us some insight into his philosophy and the decision points along the way. 

GS: My process is basically to read, in hard-copy form, what I’ve got so far, with a sharp pencil in hand, adjusting the text, by taste. Then, when I get all the way through it, I put those changes in and repeat. Over time and over many iterations, these small choices start causing the story to move in a direction. I keep at it. The pages—the “finished” pages—begin to accrue, and the path the story is on starts to narrow—it starts to surprise me and to be “about” something, sort of. But ideally, it’s something I can’t quite articulate or reduce—the story is that articulation. It’s the thousands of micro-choices I’ve made over the weeks or months or years of working like this that make the story “mine”—that imprint my sensibility into the thing. My taste has super-permeated the thing. There’s a lot of faith involved in this—faith in something like “the wisdom of the subconscious.” Because these decisions are not meant to be rational or analytical—they’re more to do with sound and with seeking a feeling I call “undeniability”: the sense that a reasonable reader would still be with me, taking pleasure in what I’ve written and believing in it. That’s about it; as they say on the shampoo bottles: “Lather, rinse, repeat.” Try to make the story overflow its banks—that is, hope that it outgrows and defies my initial (facile) ideas about it and surprises me with a certain feeling of seeing, suddenly, something I know or believe there on the page, only I maybe didn’t know I knew or believed it until just that moment. No worthy problem is ever solved in the plane of its original conception, said Einstein (or so I once heard). I’m seeking the moment when the story leaps up into a new “plane of conception.” I also cherish the way that working closely with language changes the way I think, which, in turn, changes the world and my feeling of being in it, which tends to make it all feel funnier and sweeter and more workable. 

AS: AI tools are in their infancy, and while the norms around their use and disclosure are evolving rapidly, we think it’s important to ask writers, creators, and thinkers about their work, their businesses, and how they intersect with where technology stands today. In Model Behavior, we’ll continue to ask candid questions about the tech industry, AI pet peeves, and how AI is affecting writers’ sense of identity and livelihoods. We’ll also ask each guest to give us a behind-the-scenes look at their creative process and explain whether and how they use these tools. From anti-AI purists to power users, we’ll get into the prompts they choose, their tool stacks, or their 100% analog workflows. More coming soon. 

Wednesday, September 30, 2026

DESIGN / GREAT GARDENS OF THE WORLD


Villa Cipriani, Asolo, Italy

A nymph in billowing white slips away from the villa, one bare leg extended midstride as she crosses the lawn to keep a rendezvous. The sensuous image catches her against a hillside spilling with flowers, then leaves the rest of the story to us. 

She has chosen a lovely route. 

At Hotel Villa Cipriani in Asolo, white chairs stand on a terrace below a low stone wall. Above the wall, thousands of small white blossoms tumble down the slope. Roses grow at its foot; dark trees rise behind them. A timber pergola extends across the top of the scene, its beams offering a glimpse of the sky beyond. 

The garden’s composition is especially good from the chairs. The stone wall runs diagonally through the view, pulling the eye upward into the flowers. The pergola gives all that exuberant planting a strong horizontal line. 

There is a pleasing exchange between the terrace and the hillside: pale upholstery against green lawn, delicate metal chair frames against rough masonry, cultivated roses beside a profusion that appears almost wild. It is easy to picture a long afternoon here. 

Someone takes a chair with a view of the roses. Someone else walks beneath the pergola. Our nymph's sudden passage brings a little intrigue to this otherwise leisurely corner. 

The villa itself dates to the 16th century and underwent substantial changes in the 18th. English poet Robert Browning bought it in 1889. Rupert Guinness, the second Earl of Iveagh, acquired the property in 1962 and engaged Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Venice’s Harry’s Bar, to make it a hotel. 

Its garden, like the house, has been shaped by successive owners. The question of who designed the garden has no single-name answer. 

Historic Hotels Worldwide attributes the villa’s earliest formal gardens to unnamed architects of Andrea Palladio’s school. It credits Browning with introducing plants including roses, cypresses, laurels and oleander, and says an English-style garden was established after Guinness bought the estate. 

No documented designer or photographer is readily identifiable for the particular corner in this photograph. 

Be assured there is more to see beyond this scene. The hotel describes tulips in spring, jasmine in May, fragrant Osmanthus fragrans in September and persimmon trees brightening the colder months. The garden’s terraces also open onto views of the hills surrounding Asolo. 

Yet this intimate corner makes a persuasive case for lingering: stone and timber give it shape, flowers soften every edge, and a woman in white has just hurried through, leaving us to wonder her mission. 

Monday, September 28, 2026

MONDAY MEDIA / HOW DEZEEN MADE DESIGN DAILY NEWS

Dezeen, the online design magazine, was launched in 2006 by Marcus Fairs and his wife, Rupinder Bhogal. The Dezeen Awards followed in 2019.

By Thomas Shess, publisher of PillaartoPost.org online magazine and retired Design Editor at San Diego magazine and San Diego Home/Garden Lifestyle magazine
--A house made of earth. A chair grown from mushrooms. A proposed stadium with a roof that seems to float above the crowd. Open Dezeen on a given morning and any of them might be waiting for you. The London-based online magazine has made architecture, interiors and design into a daily news habit for readers far beyond the professions that produce them. 

Marcus Fairs launched Dezeen in November 2006, working from a spare room. He had previously been the founding editor of the British architecture and design magazine Icon. At Dezeen, he saw what the web could offer: photographs could carry a story around the world immediately, and a small editorial staff could put a new building in Tokyo beside an experimental lamp in Milan on the same day. His wife, Rupinder Bhogal, helped build the company and remained a senior figure as it grew. 

The name itself looks like a pronunciation tip for design. The magazine’s stated mission is to set the agenda for the global architecture and design community through a carefully edited selection of projects and news. It covers completed buildings and objects, but also proposals, disputes, materials and ideas that may never leave the drawing board. That mixture gives Dezeen its appeal: a reader can arrive for a handsome room and leave thinking about how a city ought to be built. 

 

Marcus Fairs (left) understood that an online design magazine could become a meeting place for an industry. Dezeen added a jobs board, awards, a showroom for products and a studio producing content for clients. Those ventures broadened its reach and gave it sources of revenue alongside advertising. They also make a distinction worth keeping in mind as a reader: Dezeen publishes journalism and operates businesses serving the design world it covers. 

 So who sits on the throne today? 

*Tom Ravenscroft is Dezeen’s editor, responsible for the publication readers see. The business is led by co-CEOs Benedict Hobson and Wai Shin Li, longtime colleagues of Fairs who were appointed after his death in 2022. Bhogal remains part of the company’s leadership story; reducing her to a footnote in her husband’s biography would miss how the enterprise was built. 

 The power behind the throne, in the ownership sense, is JP/Politiken Media Group. The Danish company bought Dezeen in 2021. At the time, the announcement said the magazine would retain its editorial independence and its senior management team. That is the ownership structure; it does not tell us that a Danish executive chooses the buildings on tomorrow’s homepage. 

 Fairs died unexpectedly in June 2022, leaving a publication that had long since outgrown its spare room. Architectural Digest, reporting his death, credited him with helping bring design journalism into the digital age. It noted that his influence extended through conferences, broadcasting and books as well as Dezeen itself. His achievement was partly editorial and partly entrepreneurial: he gave design news an international audience that could encounter it every day. Other media offer a useful measure of that reach. The Guardian, writing about Australian architecture in 2024, treated a place on Dezeen’s list of the year’s best home extensions as a significant distinction for a small Tasmanian practice. 

In a different architecture essay, the paper referred casually to a design trend filling Dezeen’s pages, assuming its readers would know the site. Coverage in Dezeen has become a way for projects to travel beyond their home cities. There is a caution in that success. Architecture photographs can make a building irresistible on a screen. They cannot tell a reader whether the roof leaks, the public can enter, the apartments are affordable or the place feels good to occupy in August. 

A design publication must decide when the beautiful image is the beginning of the story and when it is merely the sales pitch. 

Dezeen’s speed and appetite for striking work make that question especially interesting. Still, I return to it. Dezeen gives a curious reader permission to take a new idea seriously for a few minutes, whether it comes from an established architect or a designer making a first public impression. 

Nearly twenty years after Fairs opened the site, that daily invitation remains its best feature. 


*Tom Ravencroft, Dezeen Editor (above). holds masters in architectural history from both Edinburgh and The Bartlett, where his writing focused on the architecture of data centres. Image shows him holding one of the many awards Dezeen has earned for its journalism over the years. Tom has worked for several publications in architecture and construction, including the Architects' Journal and Construction Manager. He has also contributed to RIBA Journal, Icon, BD, City Metric, Architectural Review and ArchDaily. Videos on the built environment featuring Tom have had over five million views on YouTube. Follow Tom on Instagram and X (formerly Twitter). 


Sunday, September 27, 2026

SUNDAY REVIEW / MISSION BEACH FICTION "SEEN VINNIE?"


By Thomas Shess 

Vinnie Zitti walked into the Beachcomber looking for Frankie Lester. 

He paused inside the door while his eyes adjusted from the violet dusk to the tired yellow light behind the warped front windows. Thirty-five, broad through the shoulders, his skin browned by a life spent outdoors, he wore a white T-shirt, faded Levi’s, deck shoes without socks. 

Nothing threatening about him until the room grew quieter when he walked in. 

“Vinnie.” 

“Hey, Vin.” 

A pool player lowered his cue. Two women at the bar turned on their stools. One smiled. The other checked the doorway behind him, as though Vinnie’s arrival promised someone else’s trouble. 

Vinnie acknowledged them without taking his eyes off the room. 

“Seen Frankie?” 

Nobody had. 

That was the answer he had been getting for three weeks. 

Vinnie crossed to his usual stool, the one that gave him the front door in the mirror and a clear view of the hallway leading to the restrooms. The bartender set down a Corona with lime without asking. 

“On me,” called Eddie the plumber from the far end of the bar. 

Vinnie lifted the bottle in thanks. 

He seldom bought his own drinks. It wasn’t that he expected favors. Mission Beach simply took care of his bar tab for helping police the ’hood. 

When Eddie’s back went out, Vinnie and a Mexican cook had carried a refrigerator up three flights. While bodysurfing, he had pulled a drowning tourist from beyond the break before the lifeguards reached the water. When Sally Burke’s former husband slapped her outside the Pennant bar, Vinnie walked the man to his car with one hand clamped around the back of his neck. 

Vinnie had made mistakes, but none against the neighborhood. 

Frankie Lester had made nothing but mistakes. 

Roommate once. 

Parasite eventually. 

Vinnie had let Frankie sleep on the couch in his bungalow on Santa Clara Court after Frankie lost another job and another girlfriend. Then four ounces of cocaine disappeared from a coffee can behind the bathroom pipes. Frankie vanished before Vinnie came home. 

For Vinnie, that settled who had taken it. 

Four ounces ($6k)was not a misunderstanding. Vinnie told anyone who would listen that he was holding the powder until its rightful owner got sprung from County Jail for possessing far less than what was in the old Folgers can. That was how much Vinnie was trusted in Mission Beach. 

Vinnie took a sip and watched the mirror. 

Outside, Mission Beach was changing shifts. Tourists drifted toward hotels and vacation rentals while the locals claimed the bars, alleys and seawall. The roller coaster at Belmont Park clanked against the evening. Lovers whispered over happy-hour drinks at the Pennant down the block. Bicycles rattled past on the boardwalk carrying fishing poles, groceries and people with nowhere urgent to be. 

Between Pacific Beach and Ocean Beach, the six-block-wide peninsula called Mission Beach was barely wide enough for a man to hide. Frankie was managing it anyway. 

“You check Pacific Beach?” Eddie asked from his end of the bar. 

“Twice. Someone saw him steal a bike at the Catamaran.” 

“Any other hotels?” 

“All the ones that’ll rent to him.” 

Eddie asked, “What happens when you find him?” 

Vinnie looked at the bottle. “He replaces what’s mine.” 

“And if he doesn’t have it?” 

Vinnie smiled. “He’ll think of something.” 

*** 

Four college girls occupied the booth near the window. Three wore long shirts over damp bathing suits. The fourth co-ed had an orange bikini top and a towel cinched around her waist. Two sunburned Marines had already sent them a pitcher. 

The girls let it sit untouched while deciding whether the gesture had raised or lowered the men’s value.  Finally, the Marines joined them.

Near the jukebox, two barefoot milf blondes drank white wine and watched the door for men with Porsches. They worked for an architect near the coaster and could recognize an expensive watch in poor light. 

Along the bar sat the Sallys, local women who worked in restaurants, salons and hotel offices and had survived enough beach summers to know the difference between a good time and a bad decision. 

Several were actually named Sally. The rest had Gen X names like Emily, Madison and Hannah.

Sally Burke slid onto the stool beside Vinnie. 

She asked, “You hunting trouble?” 

"I think it just walked in," 

"Vinnie, I'm serious." 

"Looking for Frankie.” 

“That answers my question.” 

“You seen him?” 

She shook her brown ponytail, “Not since he tried to sell Gary Lutz a television that belonged to Gary Lutz.” 

“When?” 

“Last week.” 

“Where?” “Party on St. Peter’s Court.” 

“What addressr?” 

“Couldn’t tell you. Blue bungalow with a second-story deck.”

 “They’re all blue and they all have second-story decks.” 

“That’s why God invented patience,” she said. Sally took his beer and drank from it. Vinnie let her. 

“You ought to leave Frankie alone,” she said. 

“He stole from me.” 

“Frankie steals from everybody.” 

“Then everybody ought to be looking.” 

“They know better.” Vinnie reclaimed the bottle. 

“What’s that supposed to mean?” 

“Frankie’s scared. Scared you're gonna hurt  him."

“Good.” 

She said, “Scared men do stupid things.” 

“He was doing stupid things before he got scared.” 

Sally looked toward the mirror behind the bar. “You ever think maybe Frankie didn’t take your shit?” 

Vinnie turned to her. “No.” 

“Maybe you should.” 

“Why?” 

"Cuz," She smiled, but there was nothing playful in it. “Even Frankie Lester isn’t guilty of everything that goes down bad around here.” 

*** 

The Beachcomber filled around them. Pool balls cracked. The jukebox found an old Stones song about this being the last time. Someone laughed too loudly near the front windows. The blondes finally received two Porsche men fresh from a Padres game, still wearing team polo's and six run lead confidence.

Vinnie stayed on his stool. He watched both doors. At ten-thirty, Eddie left. At eleven, the college girls followed the 30-something stock brokers out to the seawall, leaving the pitcher behind. 

At eleven-fifteen, Sally returned to the Beachcomber. She touched Vinnie’s arm. “There’s another party tonight.” 

“Where?” 

“St. Peter’s. Blue bungalow.” 

“Second-story deck?” 

“Naturally.” 

Vinnie stood. Put his arm around her bare shoulders over a yellow tank top. 

“Sally, didn't we just talk about this, today?" 

“Okay,” she said with a grin. “Next door, then.” 

"You gonna be at the party?"

"Yes, but I gotta favor to ask. Don’t break him,” Sally said. 

“I only want what he took.” 

“That isn’t what I said.” 

Through the loose armhole of her top, Vinnie could see she wasn’t wearing a bra. Two reasons right there for liking Sally. She looked great undressed. 

“Leave him alone.” 

“No. He's a slime.” 

“Take it out on me.” 

“No way.” 

“What’s the difference? I'll let you dance on me and everybody goes home happy.” 

“He stole four ounces of cocaine from me. No offense, gorgeous, but no broad in this burg could cover ten grand.” 

“Your stuff’s old. Six grand, tops.” 

Vinnie studied her. “You know a lot about it all of a sudden.” 

“I know men exaggerate.” 

“Your skinny ass couldn’t take the beating.” 

“Let me try. That’s only six guys.” 

“At one time?” 

"OK, but if I haf to I can pull a train. That way it’s over in one night.” 

“If it was mine, you’d be worth it, Sal. But I’m holding it for a friend doing a stretch at County.” 

Vinnie took a longer look at her. “You’re soft on Frankie, aren’t you?” 

“Maybe. Maybe I just want to be with you in bed for a month.” 

“Stay with me tonight and I’ll give him a week to get out of town.” Vinnie stood up to leave. He put five dollars under the bottle, although he had not paid for it, and stepped toward the door. He stopped and looked at Sally. “Door’s open. You gonna show?” 

“Yes.” Vinnie grinned. 

Sally didn't want to blush but she did."

Vinnie stepped into the night. 

 *** 

The fog had burned away hours before, but the ocean air remained cool and damp. He walked north beyond the roller coaster, along the boardwalk, past bicycles chained to railings and towels sagging from balconies. 

The ancient seawall held its usual congregation—teenagers sharing cigarettes, fishermen studying black water, old men sitting together without speaking because they had already heard everything the others might say. 

Vinnie turned into St. Peter’s Court toward the bay side. The alleys and sidewalks were the true streets of Mission Beach, sand-powdered slivers between tired fences and salt-scabbed bungalows. They were wide enough for a bicycle, a trash can and whatever trouble a man had brought home. 

The party announced itself halfway down the court. Bass shook the windows. People crowded the patio and stairs. A young woman sat on the hood of a Volkswagen, crying into a plastic cup while her boyfriend explained why wearing her bikini top at midnight was unreasonable.  He was an asshole. So were his buddies.  She deserved better,  But it wasn't his fight.

Vinnie climbed the steps. Inside, the bungalow was hot with beer breath and bodies. Someone had pushed the furniture against the walls. A lamp without a shade turned the room the color of old nicotine. The kitchen counter held three liquor bottles, two bowls of melting ice, bags of chips from Costco and a ham no one had touched. 

Vinnie saw Frankie beside the refrigerator. Frankie wore a windbreaker zipped to his chin. His hair was damp at the temples. He held a beer he had lifted from somebody who had left it there to take a piss. He was drinking it quickly, as though finishing it would make it his. 

His eyes found Vinnie. The bottle stopped halfway to his mouth. 

Vinnie crossed the room. People moved aside without knowing something was about to happen. “Put the beer back,” Vinnie said. 

The owner of the Coors stepped between them, took the bottle from Frankie’s hand and continued into the crowd. 

Frankie’s jaw twitched. He expected Vinnie to punch him any second. 

Vinnie did. Fist connected. 

Frankie hit the floor, then bounced up like he had landed on a trampoline. “You’ve been looking for me?” 

“You know I have.” Vinnie punched him to the floor again. 

Frankie got up a little slower. “I heard you were telling people I robbed you.” 

“First true words I've heard from you.” 

“Better not call me a thief again or I’ll tell the cops what you're up to.” Frankie went down. This time for the full count. Vinnie studied him. The party paused briefly, then continued. He remembered Frankie on the couch, sick and sweating, swearing he would straighten himself out. He remembered giving him fifty dollars for groceries and learning later that Frankie had spent it on a woman named Rainbow who lived in a van. He remembered finding the empty coffee can behind the bathroom pipes. 

Frankie came to. He was bleeding from his mouth.

“Thief,” Vinnie said pointing at Frankie's face. 

“It wasn’t me,” Frankie shouted from the floor. “I was with someone else. We didn’t have anyplace to roll around, so we waited until you left your place” 

“A woman?” 

“Yes. We used your sofa then left. We didn't take anything." 

“Get up, you lying asshole,” Vinnie bellowed. 

“No way. You’ll keep punching me until I’m dead.” 

“That’s my plan.” 

Frankie’s right hand disappeared inside his windbreaker. 

Vinnie saw the movement but not the gun until it cleared the pocket. A snub-nosed .38. 

From the floor, Frankie aimed at Vinnie’s chest. 

“Don’t,” Vinnie ordered. 

“Self-defense.” Frankie fired. The shot flattened every sound from the beach to Baja. The party was over. Bodies flew out of the bungalow except Frankie and Vinnie. Men shoved toward the doors. Women screamed. Someone fell against the stereo, cutting off the music in the middle of a lyric. 

Vinnie dropped straight down, striking the floor on one knee before rolling onto his back. He looked around, surprised that he had fallen and even more surprised that he couldn’t get up. 

Frankie rose and stood over Vinnie with the revolver hanging at his side. 

Vinnie looked up at him. “I don’t feel a fucking thing, but I can’t move.” 

“You’ll feel it, don't worry.” 

“Who stole my stash?” 

Frankie didn’t have to answer. 

The pain rolled into Vinnie like some sonofabitch tsunami. Vinnie’s mouth moved. No sound came out. 

Blood spread across the white T-shirt. He was dead. 

Frankie crouched and pressed one palm against the wound, performing concern for anyone still watching. “Call somebody,” he shouted. “Jesus Christ, call somebody.” 

No one was left in the place. 

His other hand slipped into Vinnie’s back pocket. Quick. Practiced. He took the wallet. 

*** 

Sally Burke stood in the kitchen doorway with a dish towel in her hand. She had followed Vinnie from the Beachcomber after giving him enough time to believe she had not. 

She saw Frankie take the wallet. 

Their eyes met. 

Frankie knew she had seen. 

Sally knew that he knew. 

He rose and gestured with the back of his hand.  The gun was still in his grip. “You didn’t see anything.” 

Sally’s face became still. Her hand found a steak knife in the sink behind her. 

“No,” she said. “I saw nothin'.” 

Frankie turned away and looked at Vinnie. 

Sally lunged. 

 Frankie felt the knife go into his neck. She twisted the blade. 

Hard. 

Brutal. 

He coughed, gasped and started to cry while trying to extract the blade that she had jammed into his vertebrae. A second later, he rag-dolled-it on top of Vinnie. Dead. 

Sally looked down at both men. “Sorry, Frankie, but you shot the wrong guy.” 

She took Vinnie’s wallet from Frankie’s hand, picked up the revolver and slipped the knife into the back pocket of her jeans. Nobody saw her leave. 

She ran down the stairs and through the court, hitting a trash can hard enough to overturn it. At Mission Boulevard, she found a cab idling outside a liquor store. The driver had a Del Mar racing form spread across the steering wheel. 

“Santa Fe Depot,” she said out of breath. 

The driver looked at her face. He judged in an instant if she was good for the fare. 

Sally had looked into Vinnie's wallet. Saw plenty of C-notes. She looked up at the cabbie and smiled. "I'm good for it." 

“Santa Fe Depot," he repeated.. 

Behind Vinnie's driver’s license was a photograph of a younger Vinnie standing beside his Newark mother in front of the roller coaster. Sally only removed the cash. 

Minutes later, from the crest of the bridge that headed back downtown, she flung the wallet into Mission Bay, followed by the knife. 

"Who'd you kill?" A pair of eyes looked at her in the rear-view mirror. 

"My past." 

"Where you going from there?" 

"Anywhere." 

"Why the train?" 

"I can climb on and don't have to answer to cops or pay the conductor until we're rolling out of town. 

"Makes sense." 

*** 

Back in Mission Beach, the party had repaired itself after the ambulance left. Then the white morgue van departed, followed by the cops. 

Ice clinked in plastic cups. The stereo played louder than before. Someone had mopped Vinnie’s and Frankie’s blood but left a pink stain across the floorboards. By morning it would turn brown. 

Somebody drunk lit a cigarette and tossed the match into the trash can. 

Sirens had drawn a crowd.

Newcomers walked into the party and saw flames coming out of the kitchen. “Jesus, someone call the fire department.” 

Nobody answered except a skinny teen. “By the way, anyone seen Vinnie?” 

 *** 

Thomas Shess is author of "Cantina Psalms" and "Tough Love." For more free short stories: ThomasShess.com

Illustration by F. Stop Fitzgerald, PillartoPost.org

Mission  Beach looking south along Mission Boulevard.  Pacific Ocean, right, Mission Bay, left.


Saturday, September 26, 2026

COFFEE BEANS & BEINGS / THE STORIED HISTORY OF CAFÉ GONDRÉE

 

In most coffeehouses, the walls merely decorate the room. At Café Gondrée in Normandy, they testify.    

Shoulder patches, regimental insignia, faded photographs, flags, helmets and pieces of old military uniforms cover the interior of the modest café beside the Caen Canal. They recall a night when the surrounding countryside shook beneath crashing gliders and gunfire—and when this two-story red-brick building found itself at the opening edge of the liberation of Western Europe.    


Café Gondrée stands in Bénouville, about six miles northeast of Caen, at the western end of the bridge the world now knows as Pegasus Bridge. The building dates to 1892. For most of its early life it was simply a neighborhood café beside a canal crossing, serving workers, travelers and the occasional soldier. Then came the German occupation of France, followed by one of the most daring small-unit operations of World War II.    

Shortly after midnight on June 6, 1944, British glider troops descended upon the fields surrounding the café. The darkness had concealed their approach, but not the violence of their arrival. The wooden Airspeed Horsa gliders struck the Norman earth at speed, tearing through fences and skidding across uneven ground. One came to rest fewer than 50 yards from its objective.    

July 1944 Normandy, France

The mission was precise and exceedingly dangerous. Major John Howard and a force drawn principally from D Company, 2nd Battalion, Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire Light Infantry, had been ordered to seize two bridges intact: the Bénouville Bridge across the Caen Canal and another crossing over the Orne River.    

If German troops destroyed the bridges, British airborne forces landing east of the Orne might be isolated. If German armor crossed them, tanks could strike the flank of Allied troops scheduled to land hours later at Sword Beach. Howard’s men had to arrive without warning, overwhelm the guards and prevent demolition charges from being used.    

Six gliders carried 181 men toward the two bridges. Five landed remarkably close to their assigned objectives at 12:16 a.m. French time. The soldiers climbed from the splintered aircraft and attacked. Surprise was nearly complete.    Lieutenant Den Brotheridge led the first rush across the canal bridge. He silenced a German machine-gun position but was mortally wounded during the fighting, becoming the first member of the invading Allied armies to die from enemy fire on D-Day. Lance Corporal Fred Greenhalgh had already drowned after being thrown unconscious from a glider during its crash landing, making him the operation’s first Allied casualty.    

Within approximately ten minutes, both bridges were in British hands.    

Only steps from the western end of the canal bridge stood Café Gondrée, operated by Georges and Thérèse Gondrée. They lived there with their daughters, Georgette and Arlette. To the German soldiers who patronized the café during the occupation, the Gondrées may have appeared to be merely another French family enduring the war. In fact, Georges and Thérèse were quietly aiding the Resistance.    Thérèse had grown up in Alsace and understood German. She listened as occupying troops talked in the café, collecting details about defenses surrounding the bridge. Information gathered by the Gondrées was passed through the French underground to British intelligence.    

Their work was perilous. An overheard conversation, a misplaced note or the suspicion of the wrong customer could have brought arrest, torture or execution. The café’s everyday appearance offered its protection. Cups were poured, meals were served and military gossip drifted across the room while the Gondrées listened.    

That quiet resistance ended in the early hours of June 6, when the crash of gliders and the rattle of gunfire announced that the invasion had begun.    

The family sheltered inside as the British attacked. Accounts of the hours that followed have acquired the polished glow of legend, but one detail has endured: the Gondrées had concealed bottles of champagne during the occupation, and liberation was toasted while the war remained dangerously close.    

For decades, Café Gondrée has been promoted as the first house in mainland France liberated on D-Day. The distinction appears on the building and in the French government’s historic-monument record. It has become inseparable from the café’s identity.    

History, however, is rarely as tidy as the plaques later attached to it.    

French historian Norbert Hugedé concluded that a house belonging to Louis Picot was entered by British troops before the Gondrée residence. Other historians have pointed to the Picot café and a former tramway station as buildings reached earlier during the fighting. Even the Wikipedia history of Café Gondrée describes the claim as uncertain.    

The argument matters to historians attempting to reconstruct the sequence of that night, but it does not diminish the café’s significance. Café Gondrée stood within yards of the battle. Its proprietors had supplied intelligence to the Resistance. Its rooms received the soldiers who captured the bridge, and its family would spend the following decades preserving their memory.    

Later in 1944, the Bénouville Bridge was renamed Pegasus Bridge after the winged-horse emblem worn by British airborne forces. The nearby Orne River crossing became Horsa Bridge, honoring the gliders that had carried the assault troops into France.    

The fighting did not end with the bridges’ capture. Howard’s men had to hold their position until reinforcements arrived. The British 7th Parachute Battalion reached the area during the night, followed later by commandos advancing inland from Sword Beach. Among the parachute reinforcements was a young officer named Richard Todd, who became an actor after the war. In the 1962 motion picture “The Longest Day,” Todd portrayed Major Howard—while another actor played Todd himself.    

For Café Gondrée, the postwar years brought a different kind of duty.    British veterans returned to Bénouville and found the café waiting for them. Major Howard came back repeatedly, as did former glider troops, paratroopers, officers and the families of men who had been killed. The Gondrées received them as friends rather than customers. What had been an ordinary village café gradually became a place of reunion and remembrance.    

Its walls accumulated the physical evidence of those relationships: badges presented by soldiers, signed photographs, helmets, flags, unit emblems and portraits of the men who planned and carried out the assault. The collection did not arrive through the calculated efforts of a museum curator. It grew gift by gift and visit by visit.    

The café also became a gathering place for military historians and officers attending battlefield lectures in Normandy. Major General “Pip” Roberts, Brigadier David Stileman and Major Howard were among the veterans who returned to discuss the campaign.    

Howard once brought along Hans von Luck, a former colonel in Germany’s 21st Panzer Division. Because the Gondrée family remained deeply hostile toward former German soldiers, Howard reportedly introduced von Luck as a Swede. It was an awkward little deception in a place where memory had never become abstract.    

After Georges and Thérèse died, their daughter Arlette assumed responsibility for the café. She had been four years old when British soldiers arrived in 1944. Under her stewardship, Café Gondrée continued serving refreshments while functioning as an intimate, sometimes crowded repository of D-Day history.    

Each June 5, British airborne veterans and their families gathered there. Champagne was traditionally offered at 11:16 p.m.—British wartime time corresponding to the gliders’ 12:16 a.m. landing in France. The ritual turned a military timetable into a family observance.    

In 1987, the French government registered Café Gondrée as a historic monument. In 2024, Arlette Gondrée was appointed a chevalier of France’s National Order of Merit in recognition of her work preserving the memory of the liberation.    The original Pegasus Bridge remained in use until 1993. It was replaced the following year by a wider, stronger rolling-lift bridge of similar design. The 1934 bridge was eventually moved to the nearby Memorial Pegasus museum, where it remains the centerpiece of a collection devoted to the British 6th Airborne Division. The old span was sold to the museum for the symbolic price of one franc.    

Café Gondrée remained beside the canal.    

Today, visitors approaching from the bridge encounter a building whose modest scale seems out of proportion to its reputation. This is no grand European café with mirrored walls, marble columns and formally dressed waiters. It is small, personal and crowded with the objects of remembrance.    People may stop for coffee, a cold drink or a simple meal, but they come primarily to stand inside a surviving witness. From the café, they can look toward the fields where Howard’s gliders struck the earth and toward the canal crossing that had to be captured before dawn.    

Most historic battlefields require imagination. The guns are silent, the troops are gone and the landscape has softened. At Café Gondrée, history is compressed into a human setting: a doorway, a table, a family photograph, a bottle raised in relief.    

The little café has survived occupation, battle, family loss, historical controversy and the passing of nearly all the men who liberated the bridge. It remains both a business and a shrine—one of those rare places where an ordinary cup of coffee can be served within arm’s reach of extraordinary history.    Many coffeehouses trade on atmosphere. Café Gondrée possesses something more enduring. Its soul was earned during the first minutes of D-Day. 

 

July 2026

MORE INFO  
  

Café Gondrée–Pegasus Bridge    

12 Avenue du Commandant Kieffer    

14970 Bénouville, Normandy, France    

Café Gondrée stands beside the present Pegasus Bridge on the Caen Canal. The original 1934 bridge, wartime artifacts and a reconstructed Horsa glider can be seen at the nearby Memorial Pegasus. Because the café is privately operated and schedules may change, visitors should confirm opening hours before making a special trip.    

Principal background sources: Café Gondrée—Wikipedia; Pegasus Bridge—Wikipedia; and the French Ministry of Culture historic-monument record. 

Thursday, September 24, 2026

THE FOODIST / WHAT’S SO HOT ABOUT RAO’S IN EAST HARLEM?


GUEST BLOG / By Janus Doubleday, Staff Writer, PillartoPost.org
--A restaurant ordinarily wants you to come in. It places a menu in the window, hires someone to answer the telephone and invents reasons for you to surrender an evening and a credit card. Rao’s, at the corner of East 114th Street and Pleasant Avenue, has pursued a more provocative policy. It has spent decades explaining, with varying degrees of warmth, that you probably cannot eat there.    

This has not discouraged anyone.    

Rao’s occupies one softly lighted room in East Harlem, with six booths, four large tables and a small two-top, according to a 2023 visitor who counted them for The New Yorker. The walls are paneled and crowded with photographs. Christmas lights remain on duty beyond the jurisdiction of Christmas. There is a bar, a jukebox and an atmosphere suggesting that Dean Martin might return at any moment to retrieve his coat.    

The room is not grand. 

That is part of its ungrandeur.    


There is no army of reservationists, no electronic booking platform and no midnight scramble on an app. A telephone recording informs callers that the reservation book is closed. Walk-ins should not expect a barstool and a plate of meatballs. Even a determined New Yorker writer who traveled from Red Hook, addressed the staff in Italian and attempted to charm her way inside received a complimentary Martini and a tour—but no dinner.    

The restaurant’s coveted places are governed by what Rao’s calls “table rights,” a system resembling a timeshare, a hereditary title and a neighborhood compact conducted over red sauce. 

Certain regulars control particular tables on a weekly, monthly, quarterly or annual night. If they cannot use the table, they may give it to friends, relatives or a charity. Some rights pass through families. 


According to Vanity Fair, Rao’s had roughly eighty-five original table holders, and the custom hardened after Mimi Sheraton awarded the restaurant three stars in The New York Times in 1977.    

At most restaurants, a reservation promises a table for perhaps two hours, after which the check arrives with the tact of an eviction notice. At Rao’s, the table belongs to its holder for the night. Guests arrive, eat, drink, sing, talk and remain. No one peers over their shoulder at a lobby full of people clutching coats and grievances. In a city where a dining room’s profitability is often calculated by how quickly it can turn a chair, Rao’s achieved fame by declining to turn anything—not its tables, its jukebox, its recipes or, most important, its idea of whom the room belongs to.    


This raises the natural question: Is Rao’s hot because the food is wonderful, or is the food wonderful because almost no one can get near it? The answer is yes.    

Rao’s began in 1896, when Charles Rao bought a small saloon from the George Ehret Brewery. East Harlem then contained an Italian community larger than the one downtown that tourists would come to know as Little Italy. 

Customers carried tin pails to the bar to have them filled with beer. During Prohibition, neighborhood wine reportedly traveled from a nearby cellar into Rao’s basement by hose and sold for a dollar a bottle—a distribution system of admirable directness.    

Charles Rao died in 1909, and the place passed through the family. Louis Rao handled the bar; his brother Vincent cooked. Vincent’s lemon chicken became one of the restaurant’s signatures. After Louis’s death, Vincent and his wife, Anna Pellegrino Rao, presided over the room. Rao’s was still known principally as a saloon and steakhouse until the nineteen-seventies, when Anna began carrying her cookware and Southern Italian family recipes from the house next door. 

Anna Pellegrino Rao.  Vanity Fair photo.

The restaurant’s own history credits Vincent and Anna with transforming the neighborhood establishment into the Rao’s that New York came to covet.    

Anna’s food was not designed to be discussed with tweezers. This was not cuisine constructed to resemble an architectural model. It was food made for a table of relatives: meatballs, marinara, seafood salad, veal, sausage, peppers, pasta and chicken browned beneath a broiler and sharpened with lemon. Dishes came out on platters and were passed around. There was often no printed menu. The evening’s choices were recited, a practice that encouraged a useful degree of surrender.    

The famous meatballs are a serious affair—beef, pork and veal, softened with bread crumbs, cheese, parsley, garlic, eggs and enough water to keep them tender. They are fried, then introduced to tomato sauce. Their appeal is not novelty but proportion. Nothing announces itself as the secret ingredient. The secret is that all the ingredients behave.    


The lemon chicken is similarly direct. Chicken halves are broiled, cut into pieces, coated with a lemon dressing and returned to the broiler until the surface begins to char and the juices collect beneath. The dish has the bright acidity and smoky edges that persuade a diner to keep eating after prudence has suggested otherwise. CBS demonstrated the preparation with the restaurant in 2015; recipes for Rao’s meatballs and other staples have appeared in its cookbooks and throughout the food press. Rao’s has published four cookbooks, an unusually democratic gesture from a restaurant whose dining room is operated like a principality.    

A recent account by The Infatuation, whose writers finally obtained a table after years of trying, found the food capable of surviving the mythology. The meal included seafood salad, clams oreganata, meatballs, penne alla vodka, lemon chicken, steak pizzaiola and cheesecake. Not every plate needed a brass band. The point was the cumulative pleasure of generous, confidently seasoned food served in a room that behaves as if the outside century has been asked to wait at the curb.    

Rao’s cooking belongs to the broad and frequently misunderstood tradition called red-sauce Italian-American. The phrase is sometimes used dismissively, as though tomato sauce were a failure of imagination. But the best examples are acts of immigrant memory, altered by New York ingredients, American abundance and the demands of feeding a crowd. This is not the food of a particular Italian village preserved under glass. 


It is the cooking of Italian families who came to America, prospered, argued, married and returned every Sunday to the same table.    

Rao’s serves nostalgia, but not the manufactured kind. There was no branding agency in 1896 deciding that tin ceilings, Sinatra photographs and a jukebox would create an “authentic experience.” The room accumulated itself. Its decorations are not concepts. They are evidence.    

That evidence includes Frank Pellegrino Sr., the late co-owner and impresario who became the restaurant’s public personality. Pellegrino arrived in 1972 to help his aunt and uncle for two weeks and remained for forty-four years. He had been a nightclub singer, and at Rao’s he turned hospitality into a form of theater. He greeted guests, worked the room, sang when persuaded and became so practiced at rejecting reservation requests that he acquired the inevitable nickname “Frankie No.”    

His dining room connected several New York worlds that officially had nothing to do with one another. Wall Street executives, neighborhood families, actors, politicians, police officers, ballplayers and assorted men whose professions were not improved by close questioning ate beneath the same Christmas lights. Keith Richards, Billy Joel, Celine Dion and Rod Stewart were among those reported to have joined the jukebox singing. Hillary Clinton came during her 2000 Senate campaign. Jay-Z filmed part of a music video inside.    

The show-business relationship was particularly fruitful. Martin Scorsese cast Pellegrino and several Rao’s regulars in Goodfellas. Pellegrino appears in the prison-cooking sequence, the one in which Paul Sorvino’s character slices garlic with a razor blade. He later played F.B.I. Chief Frank Cubitoso on The Sopranos. Rao’s did not imitate a movie version of Italian-American New York; the movies borrowed people and mannerisms from Rao’s.    

The restaurant’s history also contains a darker chapter no sensible account should turn into décor. In December 2003, an argument over a singer’s rendition of “Don’t Rain on My Parade” ended with a fatal shooting at the bar. Albert Circelli, identified in news accounts as associated with the Lucchese crime family, was killed by Louis Barone. New York magazine examined the episode at length, and the New York Post later revisited it after Barone’s confession. It was a grotesque eruption in a dining room celebrated for making its invited guests feel safe. Rao’s endured, as old New York institutions tend to endure: without issuing a new concept statement.    


Pellegrino died in 2017 at seventy-two. Eater described his death as the end of an era, which it was, but Rao’s did not become a mausoleum. Frank Pellegrino Jr. and co-owner Ron Straci continued the family operation. Other Rao’s restaurants were created—Las Vegas, Hollywood, Miami Beach and, more recently, St. Andrews, Scotland—though the Las Vegas restaurant closed in 2021 and the Los Angeles location ended its run in February 2026. The East Harlem original remains the source of the mythology because it alone possesses the irreplaceable ingredient: the room itself.    



Then there is the sauce.    

Rao’s Specialty Foods began selling marinara in the early nineteen-nineties, taking a local restaurant name into supermarkets across the country. The premium-priced jars became a phenomenon in their own right. They also produced some understandable confusion. 

Buying Rao’s marinara does not confer a table on Pleasant Avenue, any more than purchasing a Yankees cap grants access to the clubhouse.    

In 2024, Campbell completed its acquisition of Sovos Brands, the owner of Rao’s Homemade, in a deal Reuters valued at $2.33 billion. The packaged-food business includes sauces, pasta, soups and frozen products. Its scale is almost comic when placed beside the original dining room: a national brand worth billions of dollars carrying the name of a restaurant with roughly eleven tables and a reservation book unavailable to the nation.    

Yet the jar may explain Rao’s durability better than any list of celebrity patrons. Millions of people who will never hold table rights can simmer its sauce at home, cook pasta and participate in a diluted but agreeable version of the legend. The restaurant kept its scarcity; the brand sold access. One guarded the door while the other entered every kitchen in America.    

Scarcity, of course, is a formidable seasoning. Tell people they cannot have something and they immediately detect notes of truffle. Rao’s has benefited handsomely from that law of desire. If its tables were released tomorrow on an app at thirty-day intervals, they would disappear in seconds, turn up on resale sites at deranged prices and fill social media with photographs of meatballs cooling under camera lights.  

  

But scarcity alone does not preserve a restaurant for 130 years. New York has forgotten countless fashionable rooms that once required influence, bribery or a celebrated surname to enter. Their doors eventually opened to everyone, then opened onto nothing. 

Rao’s survived because its exclusivity grew out of regulars rather than publicity. The system may be maddeningly unfair to an eager stranger, but it preserves an increasingly rare form of dining: a room populated not by whoever won this month’s reservation lottery but by people who know one another, know the staff and intend to return.    

That continuity produces the thing expensive restaurants spend fortunes trying to simulate—conviviality. At Rao’s, the laughter, embraces and singing are not programmed entertainment. The room is filled with guests who behave as though they are at a private party because, functionally, they are.    

What is so hot about Rao’s, then? The meatballs are tender. The lemon chicken deserves its reputation. The marinara has become a corporate treasure. The jukebox is good, the room is photogenic and the roster of former guests could populate a film festival, a Senate hearing and a police lineup.    

But the true attraction is possession. Somewhere in Manhattan, on a particular Monday or Thursday, someone knows that a certain table is his. His friends know it. The restaurant knows it. The table may pass to his children. For the length of the evening no host will hurry them, no algorithm will calculate their value and no stranger will be seated at their elbows.    

In a city built upon turnover, Rao’s has made permanence the ultimate luxury.    

And the door remains closed. 

###


 SOURCES CONSULTED  
  

Rao’s official history — Family chronology, Charles Rao’s 1896 saloon, Vincent and Anna Rao, signature dishes, table rights and the Specialty Foods business.    

Vanity Fair: “Welcome to Rao’s, New York’s Most Exclusive Restaurant” — Dining-room description, table assignments, family history, celebrity clientele, Frank Pellegrino Sr. and the restaurant’s cultural life.    

The New Yorker: “You Can’t Get In: An Evening at Rao’s” — A 2023 attempted walk-in, room and table count, absence of menus and the timeshare-like reservation system.    

The Infatuation: “How We Finally Got a Table at Rao’s—and Everything We Ate” — Recent dining account and appraisal of the signature dishes.    

Bon Appétit: “A History of Gangsters and GoodFellas at Rao’s” — Frank Pellegrino Sr., the restaurant’s film connections and its place in Italian-American popular culture.    

Eater New York: “With the Death of Rao’s Frank Pellegrino Sr., ‘New York Lost a Piece of Its Soul’” — Pellegrino’s death and legacy.    

New York magazine: “Murder at Rao’s” — Detailed reporting on the 2003 shooting inside the restaurant.    

Food52: “Rao’s Meatballs” — The restaurant’s celebrated meatball recipe and technique.    

CBS News: “Lemon Chicken From Rao’s Restaurant” — Demonstration of the signature lemon chicken.    

Reuters: Campbell’s acquisition of Sovos Brands — Completion and value of the transaction involving Rao’s Homemade.    

People: Rao’s one-night New York pop-up — The continuing commercial power of Rao’s exclusivity and its table-rights tradition.    

Eater Los Angeles: Rao’s Hollywood closing — Closure of the Los Angeles outpost in February 2026 and the status of the extended restaurant family.