There are no reliable statistics separating American customers from other foreign visitors, so “popular with Americans” is based on English-language travel coverage and visitor reviews.
INODA COFFEE—MAIN SHOP Address: 140 Doyu-cho, Sakaimachi-dori, Sanjo-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-8118. Photo above.
Operator: Inoda Coffee Company Limited; founded by Shichiro Inoda; company representative Toshitaka Maeda
Hours: 7 a.m.–6 p.m. daily Telephone: 075-221-0507 Inoda is the grand old salon of Kyoto coffee. Founded as a bean business in 1940, it opened its first café here in 1947. The main shop combines a traditional townhouse with a decidedly European dining room, formally dressed waiters and a pleasant courtyard. Order the house “Arabian Pearl” coffee and allow the staff to serve it in the established Kyoto manner—with milk and sugar already added unless you object. American visitors appreciate the substantial breakfast, accommodating service and atmosphere of civilized ritual. This is not third-wave minimalism. It is an old-fashioned morning performance, polished by nearly eight decades of repetition.
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SMART COFFEE Address: 537 Tenshojimae-cho, Teramachi-dori, Sanjo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-8081
Owner-operator: Third-generation proprietor Akira Motoki and family
Hours: 8 a.m.–7 p.m.; second-floor lunch service 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m.
Telephone: 075-231-6547
Smart Coffee has occupied Kyoto’s covered Teramachi shopping arcade since 1932. Its dark wood, upholstered booths and German roasting machine offer American travelers the comfortable pleasure of discovering Japan’s version of a midcentury coffee shop.
The attraction is divided evenly between the coffee and breakfast sweets: thick French toast, beautifully browned hotcakes and old-fashioned pudding. Motoki roasts the beans himself, continuing a family business now in its third generation. An English menu, central location and easy walk from Kyoto City Hall make Smart unusually approachable. Lines form during the breakfast rush, so arrive early and linger over a second cup.
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WEEKENDERS COFFEE TOMINOKOJI
Address: 560 Honeyanocho, Tominokoji-dori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-8064
Owners: Masahiro and Ayumi Kaneko
Hours: Approximately 7:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; ordinarily closed Wednesday
Telephone: 075-746-2206
Weekenders [photo, above] is concealed behind a parking lot near Nishiki Market, but the unlikely entrance is part of its charm. Masahiro and Ayumi Kaneko established their café in 2005 and began roasting in 2011. Their tiny Tominokoji shop combines exacting contemporary coffee with clay walls, timber beams, bamboo and a small Japanese garden. Americans accustomed to independent roasters will recognize the light-roast approach, carefully prepared espresso and single-origin pour-overs.
What they will not recognize is the setting: a remarkably serene fragment of old Kyoto hidden behind parked automobiles. Seating is scarce, making this a place for excellent coffee rather than an afternoon with the laptop. You will impress your hosts knowing about this coffee wonder.
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KURASU KYOTO STAND
Address: 552 Higashiaburano-koji-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto 600-8235
Owner-operator: Kurasu LLC; founder and director Yozo Otsuki
Hours: Generally 8 a.m.–6 p.m.; check before visiting
Telephone: 075-744-0804
Five minutes from Kyoto Station, Kurasu provides an easy introduction to the city’s modern specialty-coffee culture. Founder Yozo Otsuki launched the business in Australia as an online source for Japanese household goods before returning to Kyoto and concentrating on coffee.
The small stand serves beans roasted at Kurasu’s Nishijin roastery and sells handsome Japanese brewing equipment. Its internationally trained baristas are comfortable discussing coffee in English, removing much of the uncertainty for first-time American visitors.
There are only four stools, but that compactness encourages conversation. Stop upon arriving in Kyoto, order a pour-over and leave with useful advice—and perhaps a dripper—for the journey ahead.
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% ARABICA KYOTO HIGASHIYAMA
Address: 87-5 Hoshino-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto 605-0853
Founder: Kenneth Shoji
Hours: Approximately 8 a.m.–6 p.m. daily Telephone: 075-746-3669
% Arabica occupies an enviable position on Yasaka Street, within sight of the famous Yasaka Pagoda and along the tourist route toward Kiyomizu-dera.
Founder Kenneth Shoji chose Kyoto for the company’s first Japanese shop because he wanted the brand identified with the ancient capital. American customers will find familiar espresso drinks, a sharply modern interior and one of Kyoto’s most photographed coffee-shop façades. The Spanish latte is the indulgent choice; espresso or drip coffee better displays the beans. Expect a line and limited seating. The coffee is good, but the principal pleasure is carrying it into one of Kyoto’s loveliest historic neighborhoods.
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