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Thursday, December 15, 2022



GUEST BLOG / By Alexis Steinman, this time of year, the smell of dough frying fills the air on a side street off Marseille’s busy Rue de Rome. 

The source of the enticing scent is Patisserie Avyel, a small kosher bakery and salon de thé in the midst of preparing for Hanukkah. 

Marseille – home to the third largest Jewish community in Europe after London and Paris – the best Hanukkah fried treats can be found at Patisserie Avyel. 

The doughnuts here are a hybrid, an edible testament to the Jewish diaspora. Though owner Joseph Sultan comes from Morocco, his bakery has a French zip code, so he bakes a classic beignet similar to those found in French boulangeries. 

Generously dusted with granulated sugar and made with eggs, milk, yeast and flour, the beignets are like unstuffed sufganiyot. Unfettered by a fruity filling, the orbs are wonderfully pillowy. Their sugar coating melts in your mouth and covers your fingers – it’s impossible not to lick them. 

When dunked in coffee, the beignets are simply divine. 

PATISSERIE AVYEL 28, Rue Saint Suffren Marseille, France 

* is a popular blog posting daily dispatches from the frontlines of local eating. 

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