 |
| One living room in Trinidad, Cuba Photo: Phyllis Shess |
HOME SWEET HOSPITALITY
Okay, so you park your motorcycle
with sidecar in the living room. That’s
no big deal. That’s Cuba and motorcycles
are rare and expensive. Décor doesn’t
include a vehicle in most homes but for the average Cuban function trumps
form. Space is at a premium and when
you’re earning $25 a month there is no extra cash for fancy digs.
Homes are
packed closely together in the towns and cities and even clustered in rural
areas. Furnishings and appliances have
to be purchased in the more expensive CUC pesos. A TV set or a refrigerator can take a year’s
salary and that’s on the used market.
How about
the Internet?
First, let’s worry about electricity in the home? How well can someone in the family jerry rig a line to the main power poles? Only the upper middle class and the wealthy in Cuba can afford plumbers or electricians.
And, life
in the countryside is akin to 19th century standards when it comes
to running water and flushing toilets. In
Trinidad, Cuba, our tour bus followed the water truck through the narrow
cobblestone streets as residents came out with pails in hand. City dwellers can’t flush paper down the
toilet, but at least homes have running water.
Standards improve while in the better hotels around the country and if
you never leave the lobby you could come away saying Cubans don’t have it so
bad. That’s naïve, Bubby.
Homes are
painted in vibrant colors. Maybe pink
isn’t a family’s first choice, but when you locate enough paint to cover the
entire dwelling and it happens to be a wild color—then that’s your choice. And, if there is paint left over and you have
a vintage car—you now have the third or fourth pinkest ’53 Chevy on the block.
But, home
is home and there is fierce pride. Homes
are spotless. Brooms are cheap and
they’re used often. We arrived right
after a squall in a small town and after our visit, we saw the broom brigade
(all ages and sexes) in action sweeping puddled water away from the home, shops
and museums.
And, if
the Cubans have it over Americans you’ll realize right away they are
gracious. They have old school manners
and offer genuine hospitality. Being
invited into a Cuban home is a privilege reserved for those they embrace. Look them in the eye when you speak and shake
hands with everyone.
And, most
are not looking for handouts. They’re
curious about consumer goods, especially American brands. Remember Miami TV stations can be seen on
Cuban TV. They know SONY and Apple. I traded an extra iphone charging cable with
my taxi driver for the fare for a one-mile ride. Smiles and the handshake: priceless.
Remember
national poverty is not the average Cuban’s fault and if there is one truism
socialism or no—everyone is equal while in Cuba.
CASAS EN CUBA / PHOTO ESSAY / IMAGES AS OF APRIL 2015
 |
| Buildings along the Malecon (north Havana) are victims of extreme salt sea wear and tear. Photo: Phyllis Shess |
 |
| Better Havana neighborhood Photo: Phyllis Shess |
 |
| Detached homes in West Havana Photo: Phyllis Shess |
 |
| A splashy coat of paint often hides sins of disrepair Photo: Phyllis Shess |
 |
| Deco era apartment building in Havana's mid-city Photo: Mike Shess |
 |
| Weathered mid-century with interesting details Photo: Phyllis Shess |
 |
| Apartment building West side Havana Photo: Phyllis Shess |
 |
| Aging detached in Havana's West side embassy row Photo: Phyllis Shess |
 |
| Muraleando area South Havana Each level built independently over the years. Photo: Phyllis Shess |
 |
| Collapsed wall in Old Havana apartment with rampant jerry-rigged electrical wiring Photo: Michael Shess |
 |
| Central Trinidad, Cuba Photo: Phyllis Shess |
PART TWO, CASAS EN CUBA
No comments:
Post a Comment