Today's post is a Father's Day remembrance of good times in Cuba, 2015 |
Editor’s note: On a daily basis
from June 1 thru June 30, 2015 Pillar to Post online magazine is featuring
articles, photos and insights resulting from a recent group tour, an adventure
we dubbed: the April 23 Brigade’s Tour of Cuba 2015.
I’m a lucky man.
My
Father’s Day tale is recalling a father and son night in Havana
spent restaurant hopping with Michael Shess, one of the country’s leading beer
journalists, who happens to be our second son.
Wife/Mom, Phyllis had bowed out earlier for an evening of bubble bath
and quiet time at the Hotel Nacional after we all spent a ten-mile day walking
around Cuba’s historic capital city.
Mike, who
publishes West Coaster magazine out
of San Diego, and I had other ideas for the evening.
Exiting
the Hotel Nacional, one of the flagships of Cuban hotels, we noticed a dusky sun
trying to break through the rain soddened clouds. We walked a couple of blocks away from the
hotel and flagged down a Havana Taxi. Mike
said rates were cheaper away from the hotel.
Maybe so, but it didn’t matter. It was the last of the inheritance—spend away, a favorite long ago phrase
from a favorite uncle that I’ve always liked.
Our taxi
was a convertible 1959 Ford Fairlane.
Bet anyone a cool Mojito or Fanta that the paint job was original. But, as we approached the cab, the heavens
opened up. The shower turned downpour was a harbinger of an even larger storm
headed our way. But for tonight, the top
went up on the old Ford and our convertible drive down the Malecon would be in
the rain.
Our
driver told us the Ford engine was not original. So far, no one has lied to us in Cuba. Sounded like a jerry rigged Russian made
diesel. We didn’t ask.
The Ford
followed the no-street-sign streets to Sloppy Joe’s Bar and Restaurant in Old
Havana. This was the bar, where actors
Alec Guinness and Noel Coward starred in the 1958 film “Our Man in
Havana.” A few scenes of the flick were
filmed inside Sloppy Joe’s and Ernest Hemingway is reported to have been the
film’s consultant.
Once
inside the very sophisticated Sloppy Joe’s, I recalled the words of my late
dad, who insisted it never rained inside a good bar—or at least, he couldn’t
remember if it ever did.
Mike and Tom Shess inside Sloppy Joe's, Havana |
We dined
on sandwiches: a Cubano and a Jamon and cheese. He recalled living on bread, ham, cheese and
olives in Madrid during the year he attended school there.
From
Sloppy Joe’s, we hopped a bicycle cab to our next stop at Plaza San Francisco
along Havana’s waterfront. Mike wanted
to try out Factoria Cerveza, a microbrewery located in the popular Plaza
Vieja. Our cabbie had to work extra
hard given the sheer weight aboard his rig.
Being a Spanish speaker, Mike teased our cabbie for the entire route. It was a classic “had to be there” moment. We did enjoy weaving through traffic and zipped
along a few dark side streets that our tour guides might not have
recommended. Carpe Diem.
The
microbrewery turned out to be state-owned.
It is situated in a recently government sponsored rehab of the massive
building on the Plaza. They did a nice
job on the rehab.
Mike
ordered a light and dark beer while I focused on the Fanta orange soda. Because our meal at Sloppy Joe’s was light
(compared with our standards) we ordered again. I enjoyed a Cuban hamburger and
he stuck with the ham and cheese. Lot of
filler in the meat; but plenty of veggies in between the buns. Potatoes are hard to find in bulk so no
fries. Proudly, it was the only Yankee
style meal we had on the island in ten days.
Mike begged
off comparing Cuban IPAs vs. what’s available in San Diego. Reason being he was on vacation. But I pushed
him: thirsty readers want to know. “It’s
a good beer. The IPA is fine.”
Mike,
however, drank Cristal beer throughout the tour. “Cristal is the beer you drink in Cuba,
especially when the temperature and humidity hover at 100,” he added.
The Plaza
was alive with music. The microbrewery
had a combo playing what they thought the tourists might enjoy. No, mas
Guantanamera!!! But, Mike did
notice a beautiful Cuban woman at the pub next door singing an amazing medley
of salsa and Cuban jazz and no tourist tunes.
With the tropical climate being so moderate, we were able to sit in the microbrewery and appreciate her singing.
With the tropical climate being so moderate, we were able to sit in the microbrewery and appreciate her singing.
From, the microbrewery we wandered around Old Havana stopping here and there, but it came time to call it a night. We hopped a modern Russian made cab back to
the Hotel Nacional.
We saved
the best of the evening for last.
The Hotel
Nacional has the Churchill, a small bar just off the lobby. Most tourists miss it because the entry is
behind the elevator banks. Classic
Mid-town Manhattan bar only better. Here
you could imbibe from a large selection of Port and enjoy a Cuban cigar on the
premises. Puffing on a couple of short Cohiba cigars in addition to more father and son tales, we figured we’d stay until last call. Trouble with a 24-hour-a- day bar is last call could be years away. But who cares when the company is good and the stories are flowing. Amid the smoke and bar mirrors, we decided to save up for our next family adventure: Tokyo!
I’m a lucky man.
No comments:
Post a Comment